If you’re an outdoor enthusiast on a budget, love using something you created, or want highly personalized gear, make-your-own-gear (MYOG) projects may be for you. Making your own outdoor gear gives you to freedom to be innovative, save money, and have a sense of pride in the gear you use. From hammocks and quilts to pots, packs, and accessories, you have many options for MYOG. You may even reach the point where most of your gear is homemade.

Understanding the world of DIY outdoor gear is vital for creating effective gear. Explore these tips, materials, and supplies to learn how to make your own outdoor gear.

5 Tips to Get Started

If you’re an outdoor enthusiast, camper, or backpacker, you understand that you get what you pay for when it comes to outdoor gear. In many cases, making your own gear can be more affordable than paying high prices for a comparable product. You may not know where to start if you’re new to making outdoor gear. To make getting started easier, here are a few tips to remember when learning how to make your own gear.

1. Start Small

As you dive into DIY backpacking gear projects, start with smaller projects and work your way up. Starting with a project that’s too complicated or requires skills you still lack can feel discouraging and frustrating. Smaller, simpler projects allow you to build skills and experience before challenging yourself with a bigger project. For example, beginner DIY projects like a drawstring bag offer a nice starting point for newbies.

The more you practice, the better you’ll get. Before you know it, you could be making hammocks and quilts.

2. Accept That You’ll Make Mistakes

You should anticipate and accept mistakes like anything else you’re trying for the first time. You’ll likely experience a learning curve, which is normal since many people have limited to no sewing experience. Making mistakes while creating your gear allows you to learn from those mistakes and make adjustments so your gear can be even more effective. Mistakes are also a great way to see how far you’ve come and how much your skills have grown. The most critical thing is to stick with it when you make mistakes.

It’s also important to note that you can and should ask for help when you’re stuck or have questions. For example, using a sewing machine for the first time can be confusing, so you may ask your parents, aunts and uncles, grandparents, or friends for help getting started. Remember that you don’t need to make your gear alone — having someone else’s help can make it more fun.

3. Practice Sewing and Working With Tools

When making your own gear, you typically have to use several different tools depending on what you’re making. Many projects require a sewing machine, which requires a lot of practice to use well. Practice using a sewing machine and other DIY tools like fabric shears, a seam ripper, a corner turner, sewing needles, and thread on sample fabric or materials you can get for free or cheap. This allows you to practice and make mistakes without wasting high-dollar materials.

As you gain confidence with the sewing machine, use thread that matches the color of your fabric so messy stitches blend in and are less noticeable. This allows you to give yourself some freedom to be a little sloppy while you’re practicing without worrying about it being seen.

4. Learn Basic Techniques

Another great way to learn how to sew is to learn and practice various sewing techniques. Different techniques are used to achieve different designs, effects, and quality. Practice your stitches on cheap material and keep a glossary of all the ones you try so you can go back and refer to them when you have to use them in a project. For example, you may need to reference how you did a certain stitch or how to attach a zipper.

5. Choose Materials Based on What You’re Making

Once you begin shopping for the materials for your project, you should choose materials based on your final product. For example, fabric weight, thickness, and insulation can significantly affect the weight, comfort, and durability of your gear. To make ultralight gear, you’ll need lightweight fabric and materials. Thicker materials tend to be stronger and more durable.

You’ll also need to consider insulation and down fill for gear like jackets or sleeping bags. Insulation can be easier to work with, though the right level of down fill can be lightweight and warm.

Sourcing Your Own Materials

So, where should you source your materials from? Depending on the supplies you’re looking for and your budget, you have some options. Here are a few places to check out, whether you prefer to browse in-store or online.

DutchWare

When looking for materials for your final products, you’ll want high-quality materials designed for MYOG projects. DIY gear supply stores like DutchWare are your one-stop shop for MYOG needs. DutchWare specializes in lightweight outdoor gear materials, from durable hardware and gear repair equipment to insulation and heavy-duty thread. Whether you only need a few feet of rope or an entire roll, Dutchware has options that allow you to purchase what you need without wasting supplies.

Walmart or Lowes

Traditional brick-and-mortar stores like Walmart or Lowes can be great spots to find materials at affordable prices. While their selections can be limited, and some supplies may be of lower quality, you should check these stores for practice materials. For example, if you’re testing a new design, you may want to experiment with cheaper materials in case you mess up or want to make changes.

Walmart can be a great spot to find affordable fabric, buttons, buckles, and similar accessories. Some DIY gear makers also look for products at Walmart that can be used for parts. For example, rather than purchase bulk insulation or padding, you may purchase a cheap sleeping bag from Walmart and use the internal stuffing for your own insulation. Lowes and other hardware stores have affordable options for parts like metal poles or bars for framing.

Fabric Stores

Big box fabric and craft stores like Hobby Lobby, JOANN, and Michael’s often have great deals on fabrics and other useful gear-making supplies. These stores are best for stocking up on sewing supplies or cheap practice fabrics. For example, you may shop here for thread, needles, fabric scissors, tape measures, or other supplies necessary for prototypes. These stores likely won’t have the materials you want for your final gear product, but with coupons and sales, you can get prototype materials for great prices.

Common Supplies Needed

Many MYOG projects require some of the same supplies and materials. You’ll likely encounter various types of hardware, rope, insulation, webbing, and more when searching for supplies. Understanding your options can help you find the right supplies for your projects. Here’s what you should know about some common supplies you may need for your projects.

Insulation

Insulation is used for projects where additional padding or warmth is needed. For example, you may use insulation in sleeping bags, quilts, hammocks, or backpack straps. Insulation is available in different weight options — the heavier you go, the warmer it will be. So 6.0-ounce insulation will be ideal for winter gear, while 2.5-ounce insulation is often preferable for summer gear.

You should also consider what type of insulation you need for your project. For example, you could choose down insulation or continuous filament insulation. Down insulation is loose, typically packaged in bags, and can be stuffed into your quilts or other gear for warmth. Continuous filament insulation comes in sheets and can be sold by the yard. This type of insulation is commonly used for padding warmth in MYOG projects.

Rope and Cord

You may need rope and cords for numerous applications as a backpacker or outdoor enthusiast. For example, ropes can be used for anything from hanging hammocks or netting to hauling or securing gear. Ropes are a versatile material for MYOG projects, and they’re available in a wide variety of colors, lengths, strengths, and other options so you can find the right rope or cord for your needs.

For example, ropes can be water-resistant, mold- and mildew-resistant, durable under heavy use, or reflective. Some rope qualities like length or durability may be ideal for certain gear needs, while others are more for aesthetic and personal preference.

Webbing

Webbing is often used for straps and tie-downs. For example, you may use webbing to create backpack straps or tree huggers for your hammock. You should opt for high-quality webbing that will resist fraying after high use. For example, when used for tree-hugging, the webbing will be wrapped around tree trunks. Low-quality webbing will begin fraying after a couple of uses because a tree’s bark is rough.

Look for webbing that does what you need it to do. If you need it to hold the weight of your backpack or your body in a hammock, pay attention to break strength. These supplies are versatile and have various qualities like color, reflection, and stitch patterns.

Hardware

Another vital piece of material to have is the hardware. This includes everything from buckles and clips to poles and hooks. Hardware is typically either plastic or metal — metal is usually more durable and relatively lightweight, while plastic can be a more affordable and lightweight option. Hardware is necessary for nearly every MYOG project, including hammocks, tents, suspension systems, and more.

The right hardware can help make your gear more durable and reliable for many outdoor adventures to come. Low-quality hardware can make a fun trip frustrating if it causes your gear to break or malfunction, so carefully considering your hardware needs is essential.

Try Starting With a DIY Kit

Entering the world of MYOG can feel overwhelming and confusing at first. Consider DIY kits if you’re interested in making gear for yourself and unsure where or how to start. DIY kits come with all the materials and detailed instructions necessary for a project, taking much of the stress out of sourcing your materials and putting pieces together for the first time. DIY kits can range in difficulty from beginner to advanced, allowing you to find something you’re comfortable with based on your experience level.

Here are some great DIY gear kits from DutchWare that you should consider starting with.

DIY Pack Cover

Consider starting with this simple pack cover DIY kit. This kit allows you to create a waterproof pack cover to protect your pack from the elements. You can choose from various fabric colors and types depending on your preferences, and your kit will come with everything necessary to create the pack cover, including a yard of fabric, 4 feet of shock cord, and a cord lock. You’ll need your own tools like a sewing machine, scissors, and measuring tape.

While the kit comes with thorough instructions, you’ll essentially measure your full pack, cut the fabric to size, hem the corners and edges, feed the shock cord through the hem, and add the cord lock. This kit is great for beginners, and the steps are simple enough to follow with prototype materials before working with the real materials.

DIY Pillow

This DIY pillow kit is another great project to dip your toe into the world of MYOG. If you’re backpacking and want something a bit more comfortable than laying your head on your folded-up jacket, this pillow project is for you. Choose from a list of breathable fabrics and colors, and it comes with insulation and a Grosgrain strap. Grab your sewing machine, scissors, tape measure, thread, and fabric marker. On a basic level, this kit involves cutting your fabric to size, stitching the perimeter, stuffing the fabric with insulation, and sewing it closed.

Other DIY Kits

Other DIY kits from DutchWare include a stuff sack, asym tarp, tarp sleeves, pot kits, and more. You can also find numerous DIY instructions for any gear you want to make online. DIY kits are great for understanding how different materials and supplies work together without having lots of wasted materials. You’ll find that as you successfully build DIY kits, you’ll gain confidence and inspiration for future projects.

Shop DIY Supplies and Kits From DutchWare

At DutchWare, we take pride in creating innovative hammocks, outdoor gear, and supplies. Our products are ultralight, high-quality, and easy to use. We create top-of-the-line hammock camping gear and DIY supplies that are backed by a guarantee against defects — that’s how confident we are in our products. Whether you’re new to creating outdoor gear or have been DIY backpacking for years, we have what you’re looking for.

Explore our inventory online and enjoy fast shipping on all orders. If you’re not sure what you’re looking for or where to start, contact our team online or visit our store in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.

In this tutorial article we will show you how to create your own vertical DIY compression stuff sack

This is a smaller, vertical compression. This compresses along the length of the stuff sack. Compression pressure on the longest side (most room for potential compression). In our opinion the better, most efficient style of compression stuff sack.

Project Overview

Skill Level	Estimated Time
Intermediate	2-3 hours

Materials and Tools

Materials Needed:	Tools Needed:
1 Yard 300D	Sewing Machine
15″ Dutch Cord	Scissors
1 – Mini Cord Lock	Ruler/Tape Measure
4 – Linelock 3’s	Marker or Chalk
4 – 1/2″ Beastee Dee’s
64″ reflective cord
40″ x 1/2″ Grosgrain
Thread of your choice

Pattern Components

• Main Stuff Sack Body
• End Cap Circles
• Compression Panels

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Instructions for a clean-looking compression stuff sack.

Step 1:
Cut all pattern pieces from 300D.
Pattern Piece Measurements:
● Main stuff sack body- 16 1/2″ x 10″
( lay 10″ side on fold, add 2″ x 3/4″ tab on opposite edge to cut. (See photo below)
● End cap circles are 6 1/8″ in diameter . Cut 2.
● Compression panels are 20″ long, 2 3/4″ wide at the widest point, i.e., the “posts”, and 2 1/4″ wide in the “valleys”.

 

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Step 2:
Cut reflective cord to four 16″ lengths.
Step 3:
Cut grosgrain to eight 5″ lengths.
Step 4:
Thread each 5” length of grosgrain through the beastee dees and linelock 3s. Sew ends together to create tabs. Fuse ends with a flame.

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Step 5:
Arrange 2 compression side panels (right sides together), “sandwiching” tabs between the 2 layers of fabric, tabs centered on each “post”, hardware facing in. Make sure all the hardware on tabs are facing the same direction between two layers of fabric. Sew at ¼”.  Backtack over grosgrain tabs for reinforcement.

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Step 6:
Open the panels and fold crosswise, sew ends together. (right sides together).  After this seam is sewn, panel must be 9 3/8” when folded in half crosswise, to ensure it will fit the circle end cap in a later step.

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Step 7:
Snip the curves, as illustrated.

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Step 8:
Turn right side out, top stitch with a narrow seam allowance.

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Step 9:
Reinforce tabs with topstitched x-boxes or half x-boxes on each post just under the previous topstitch seam . Make sure to be center your x-box reinforcements over the grosgrain tabs on the inside. You can find them by feel and mark with chalk if you need a seam guide.

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Step 10:
Repeat steps 5-9 for second set of compression panels.

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Step 11:
Sew end cap circle to the compression panel (linelock3 panel). The edge of machine presser foot is a good seam allowance for this step.

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Step 12:
On main stuff sack body, fold both 2” tabs inwards on the wrong side and hem, making sure to keep the seam the same length as the tab. This finishes the opening of drawstring channel.

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Step 13:
Fold top edge of stuff sack inwards 1” and hem to create drawstring channel.

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Step 14:
Fold main stuff sack body in half, right sides together. Sew side seam, leaving an opening at the beginning of seam for drawstring channel.  After side seam is sewn, main body must be 9 3/8” wide, to ensure main body will fit end cap circle properly.

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Step 15:
Use a bodkin to thread the drawstring channel with Dutch Cord. (If you don’t have a bodkin, an extra large safety pin threaded with the cord works well for this) Thread both ends through the mini cord lock. Knot twice. Fuse ends with a flame.

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Step 16:
Attach main body to bottom compression panel (panel with beastee dees tabs) . Use a narrow seam allowance.

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Step 17:
Attach bottom end cap circle to the main body, right sides together. Make sure to sew seam deeper then previous seam to ensure the first seam is not visible on outside of finished product. Turn right side out.

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Step 18:
Compress everything in sight (except small dogs and children).

Related Stuff Sack DIY Projects

• No Sew Cuben Fiber Double Ended Stuff Sack
• Larger, Horizontal Compression Stuff Sack
• Zip Top Double-Ended Stuff Sack
• Double-Ended Hammock Stuff Sack

 

 

Project Overview

Skill Level	Estimated Time
Beginner	45 – 60 minutes

Materials and Tools

Materials Needed:	Tools Needed:
1/2 Yard Mesh	Sewing Machine
4 1/2 yards shock cord	Scissors
2 – Mini Cord Locks	Ruler/Tape Measure
4 Attachable Cord Locks	Marker or Chalk
4 Hook Cord Ends
4 Easy Grip Cord Ends
2 Yards 1 1/2″ Grosgrain
8″ 1/2″ Grosgrain
Thread of your choice

Pattern Components

• Front Panel 22″ x 16 1/2″
• Back Panel 14″ x 16″

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Instructions for a light weight mesh pocket, able to be used on its own or as an outside pocket on a pack.

Note: Avoid backtacking on single layer mesh.

Step 1:
Cut 1/2″ grosgrain into four 2″ pieces.

Step 2:
Cut shock cord into one 16″ length and four 36″ lengths.

Step 3:
Iron 1 1/2″ grosgrain in half to create a bias tape .

Step 4:
Cut mesh panels, notch bottom of front panel in center and two notches 4″ on either side of center notch. See photos.

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Step 5:
Double fold hem (½” for each fold) on top edge of front panel. (top edge is opposite from side with pattern notches) Leave a gap in the topstitching inset from both sides. This creates an opening for the shock cord drawstring.  

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Step 6:
Use a bodkin to thread shock cord through casing, (a safety pin works if you don’t have a bodkin) attach mini cord locks to both ends, knot and fuse both ends.

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Step 7:
Baste a tuck on the bottom side of the front panel, matching 2 outside notches.  When folding panel in half to baste tuck, shock cord casing should be on the outside.

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Step 8:
Lay front panel flat, facing upwards. Flatten the tuck. Use pins to center the tuck, matching all three pattern notches. Sew with a basting stitch and a narrow seam allowance. This seam will later be covered with the grosgrain binding.

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Step 9:
Bind top of back panel with the 1 1/2″ grosgrain binding tape, trim grosgrain ends to be even with mesh.

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Step 10:
Baste front panel to back panel, making sure shock cord casing and basted tuck is facing outwards. 

Step 11:
Bind sides with 1 1/2″ grosgrain, then bottom. Trim ends.

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Step 12:
Pull out basting stitch from bottom center tuck.

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Step 13:
Sew a reinforcement seam on two bottom corners, ½” inset from corner.

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Step 14:
Thread flat edge opening of attachable cord lock with 2” x ½” grosgrain.  Bar tack tab near the cord lock to create a tab. Repeat for remaining three tabs. Trim and fuse (with flame) all grosgrain raw ends.

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   Step 15:
Attach cord lock tab to each corner. Make 4-5 passes on grosgrain tab for bar tack. Sew 2 bar tacks for each tab. Top cord locks point outwards, bottom cord locks point upwards.

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Step 16:
Thread a 36” length of shock cord with an easy grip cord end.

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Step 17:
Take both ends and thread through an attachable cord lock on a corner of the pack back.

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Step 18:
Finish off the ends by capping them with a hook cord end.

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Step 19:
Repeat steps 14-18 for remaining 3 corners.

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Project Overview

Skill Level	Estimated Time
Beginner	30- 40 minutes

Materials and Tools

Materials Needed:	Tools Needed:
1/2 yard of one of the following: Xenon Helion Dyneema composite	Sewing Machine
1 yard Dutch Cord	Scissors
1 yard shock cord	Ruler/Tape Measure
2– Mini Cord Locks	Marker or Chalk
Thread of your choice

Pattern Components

• 2 cut mitten pieces

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Simple instructions for basic functional rain mitts. Features an easy to use drawstring requiring the use of only one hand.

Note: this can also be done as a no-sew project, using seam tape in place of regular seams

Step 1:
To create your own pattern, draw a mitten shape slightly larger then your hand, allowing for range of motion, as well as seam allowance. Add a 3/4″ x 2″ tab on inside wrist corner. See photo below for reference.

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Step 2:
Fold in both 2” tabs on outside corners and hem. This will finish/reinforce drawstring channel opening.

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Step 3:
Fold straight edge in and sew a ¾” hem, creating the drawstring channel.

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Step 4:
Fold in half, right sides together. Start seam at wrist, perpendicular to drawstring channel. Sew around edge of  mitt until you reach the fold where the two sides come together. When sewing the inside curve of the thumb, avoid making a “v” shape with your seam. A rounded curve is more durable then a sharp corner . Backtack at start and finish of seam.

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Step 5:
Use a bodkin to thread Dutch Cord through drawstring channel. (If you don’t have a bodkin a large safety pin works well for this) Thread only one strand through mini cord lock. Knot, fuse ends with flame.

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Step 6:
To tighten drawstring, pull (with one hand) the shock cord. The dutch cord holds the mini cord lock in place.

Project Overview

Skill Level	Estimated Time
Advanced	3-4 hours

Materials and Tools

Materials Needed:	Tools Needed:
1/2 yard liteskin	Sewing Machine
10″ x 10 ” mesh	Scissors
3 zipper pulls	Ruler/Tape Measure
21″ waterproof zipper	Marker or Chalk
10″ zipper
2 Beam pullers
1 mitten hook
6 3/4″ x 1/2″ grosgrain
Thread of your choice

Pattern Components

• Top and Bottom
• Side wall
• Back wall

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Instructions for a “catch all” to organize all your odds and ends that never have a specific place in your pack. Features include: a mesh pocket for smaller items, a small hanging loop, a small key ring hook, and a large hip belt loop.

Step 1:
Cut all pattern pieces from mesh and liteskin, following directions from each pattern piece.

Pattern Piece Measurements:

• Top and Bottom 7″ x 5″
• Back Wall 2″ x 4″
• Side Wall 17″ x 1 1/2″
• Hip Belt 5″ x 4 5/8″

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Step 2: 
Cut 1/2″ grosgrain into 2 pieces measuring 2 1/2″ and 4 1/4″ .

Step 3:
Thread easy mitten hook with the 2 ½” grosgrain, fuse ends together with flame.

Step 4:
Twist 4 ¼” grosgrain tab once to make loop stand open, fuse ends with flame.

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Step 5:
Hem hip belt sides (long edge) with a narrow seam.

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Step 6:
Baste hip belt to bottom panel, using narrow seam allowance.

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Step 7:
Bar tack 4 ¼” loop to bottom panel, on the right side .

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Step 8:
Bar tack easy mitten hook tab to center wrong side end of bottom panel.

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Step 9:
Mark and split mesh, sew half of zipper to half of mesh, right sides together. Turn right side up, topstitch with a narrow hem.

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Step 10:
Repeat for second half of mesh.

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Step 11:
Zip both halves of the mesh together

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Step 11:
Center mesh zippered piece to top panel (lid), baste with a topstitch and narrow seam allowance.

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Step 12:
Trim edges.

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Step 13:
Put 2 zipper pulls to waterproof zipper.

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Step 14:
Sew zipper to sidewall, right sides together, turn right side out and top stitch.

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Step 15:
Sew back wall and side wall ends together with ¼” seam, (be precise for this step) repeat for opposite ends. Topstitch.              

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Step 16:
Sew sidewall to bottom panel.  

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Step 17:
Repeat to attach lid to main body.

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Step 18:
*Optional*. Topstitching the top lid will make opening the junk trunk easier and add cosmetic value.

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Similar DIY Pack Projects

• DIY Pack Cover Tutorial
• DIY Drawstring Backpack Tutorial
• DIY Ultralight Backpack Instructions

When it comes to backpacking or hiking, many people would consider a pillow a necessity. Whether you’re looking for a more economical option or you want to get started on a new project, making a backpacking pillow yourself can be a quick and simple process, even for beginners. Follow our DIY instructions to make your own lightweight backpacking pillow.

Project Overview

Skill Level	Estimated Time	Estimated Cost
Beginner	30 to 60 minutes	$

Materials and Tools

Materials Needed:	Tools Needed:
14″x18″ ARGON 67 or ARGON 90	Sewing Machine
~55 Grams of Climashield or other fill	Scissors
4″ of 1/2″ Grosgrain	Ruler/Tape Measure
Thread of your choice	Marker or Chalk

Purchase full kit here: https://dutchwaregear-dev-3.cospark.io/product/climashield-pillow-kit/

Notes: Seam allowance is 5/8″. Backtack beginning and end of all seams. Shiny side of fabric is the “wrong” side.

          1. Cut Material to 14”x18”.

        2. Fold in half crosswise, twice.

        3. Snip corner roughly 1/8” to mark middle of longest seam.

        4. Unfold once, sew one end.

           5. Fold tab in half, turning one end over to make tab stand open. It may be helpful to secure with a pin.

          6. Sew long seam, placing the tab between the two layers of fabric , pointing inwards. Backtack over tab for reinforcement.

         7. Turn pillow right side out.

         8. Weigh and measure out 55 grams of climashield.

         9. Pull apart climashield , “shredding” it to create loft.

        10. Stuff pillow.

         11. Turn end seam inwards, and finish with a topstitch.

 

Check Out Our Other DIY Guides

• DIY Pack Cover
• DIY Drawstring Backpack
• DIY Compression Stuff Sack
• DIY Winter Tarp

 

 

This project was made available by TwoFoolsWalking. Be sure to check out their Youtube channel and other articles we have here.

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In this video tutorial series, TwoFoolsWalking will take us step by step on how to create an ultralight backpack!

For anyone who may be looking to make their own backpack as opposed to buying one, this video series provides important information as well as clear and easy-to-follow steps on how to complete the process. Follow along as they use Dutchware Gear fabric to create their ultralight backpack. 

Be sure to check out the videos and images below for full details on how to make your very own backpack, and see the finished product below.

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PART 1

 

PART 2

 

PART 3

 

Similar DIY Pack Projects

• DIY Pack Cover Tutorial
• DIY Drawstring Backpack Tutorial
• DIY Junk Trunk Tutorial

 

 

This DIY tutorial article covers complete steps for the construction of an 11-foot Cowboy D.A.R.T. — the Dyneema Advanced Recon Tarp — designed by kitsapcowboy AKA Christian Bynum of Bynum Graphic Design. It is a compact directional parallelogram asym tarp — ultralight weather protection for the hardcore hammock camper — that weighs about 3 ounces; it is constructed using Dyneema Composite Fabric (formerly known as Cuben Fiber).

* The Cowboy D.A.R.T. can be constructed from as little as 3.5 linear yards of DCF; however, purchasing 4 full yards will allow one to have DCF left over to make a matching stuff sack for this ultralight tarp, and it will also simplify marking and cutting of the reinforcement patches in proper alignment with the weave of the UHMWPE fibers, as well as provide extra material in case of errors occur cutting or applying the reinforcements. Extra DCF can be reserved for other small projects or near-seamless permanent repairs of the D.A.R.T. over its service lifetime.

Construction Steps

PHASE I — TARP PANEL

1) To build the Cowboy D.A.R.T., lay out your run of DCF and trim away both selvage edges with a rotary cutter or sharp knife exactly parallel to the weave, removing the transparent material right up to the first woven UHMWPE fibers, retaining as much width as possible (54″ to 55″).

2) Trim your full-width DCF panel (with edges removed) to 119″ long and reserve the spare rectangle of DCF fabric for future projects or repairs.

3) The D.A.R.T. has a cardinal lay direction over a gathered-end hammock (even though its lay direction can be reversed expediently in the field). If you are building the tarp for head left/feet right diagonal lay (typical), start at one end of your panel with the short edge in front of you; mark 13″ up the long edge on your left side, and cut diagonally from this mark to the corner at your right side (so that the cut edge created slants toward you from left to right). If you are building the tarp for head right/feet left diagonal lay (so-called “reverse lay”), start at one end of your panel with the short edge in front of you; mark 13″ up the long edge on your right side, and cut diagonally from this mark to the corner at your left side (so that the cut edge created slants away from you from left to right, as shown in the photo below).

4) Make another diagonal cut exactly parallel to the one you just made at the other end of your tarp panel, forming a perfect parallelogram. NB: The side of the DCF facing up during this operation will become the top (outside) surface of the tarp (which you may wish to mark temporarily with a piece of masking tape). Reserve the two large DCF triangles you removed when making the cuts is in Steps 3 and 4, and set the tarp panel aside.

PHASE II — TARP TIE-OUT ASSEMBLIES

5) Cut four (4) 8″ lengths of 1/2″ polyester grosgrain ribbon, and seal all of the ends with a lighter to prevent fraying.

6) Mount a 1/2″ Beastee Dee ring at the midpoint of one length of 1/2″ grosgrain, fold the ribbon in half, and stitch the Beastee Dee into position on the ribbon with a light bar-tack immediately behind the hardware. The tails of the folded ribbon should be of equal length.

7) Repeat Step 6 for the remaining Beastee Dee rings and cut lengths of grosgrain ribbon from Step 5 to yield a total of four (4) tie-out assemblies; set these assemblies aside.

PHASE III — TARP PANEL RENIFORCEMENTS, PART 1 (LAMINATION)

8) Aligning the diagonals from point to point with the weave of the fabric, cut out six (6) rhombi (i.e., equilateral diamond shapes) with a 10″ height (long diagonal) and a 6.25″ width (short diagonal); set four (4) of the rhombi aside, leaving two (2).

9) Cut one rhombus in half along the long diagonal to form two (2) iscoseles triangles with a 10″ base, the obtuse (wide) triangle patches to be positioned at the side corners, and set them aside for Phase IV.

10) Cut one rhombus in half along the short diagonal to form two (2) iscoseles triangles with a 6.25″ base, the acute (narrow) triangle patches to be positioned on the tarp ridge line, and set them aside for Phase IV.

11) With the remaining four (4) rhombi you cut from the DCF material in Step 8, crisply fold two (2) of them along their long diagonals to form double-layer folded isosceles triangles with 10″ bases (obtuse/wide) and two (2) of them along their short diagonal to form double-layer folded isosceles triangles with 6.25″ bases (acute/narrow).

12) Striving for thin and even application of the adhesive with no trapped air bubbles between the two layers of material, apply Seam Grip to the interior surfaces of the four (4) folded double-layer DCF patches, crease them again, and smooth out any irregularities.

13) Place the two (2) acute (narrow) and two (2) obtuse (wide) bonded double-layer DCF triangle patches between layers of wax paper, and weigh them down with heavy objects on a flat surface.

WAIT 8 TO 24 HOURS FOR THE ADHESIVE TO CURE BEFORE CONTINUING

PHASE IV — TARP PANEL RENIFORCEMENTS, PART 2 (SEWING & BONDING)

14) Remove the cured and laminated double-layer triangle patches from the wax paper.

15) Using a protractor, position a grosgrain tie-out assembly completed in Phase II approximately 25 degrees off the centerline (which is aligned with the fabric weave) of each of the two (2) acute (narrow) double-layer DCF triangle patches completed in Phase III, so that the hardware of the tie-out assembly lies opposite the base of the triangle at the apex (i.e., the vertex (corner) between the two equilateral sides) with the tails of the grosgrain sandwiching the laminated double layers of the DCF patches; stitch the tie-out assemblies in position using a “box-X” stitch pattern and a moderate to long stitch length.

16) Position a grosgrain tie-out assembly completed in Phase II on the centerline (which is aligned with the fabric weave) of each of the two (2) obtuse (wide) double-layer triangle patches completed in Phase III, so that the hardware of the tie-out assembly lies opposite the base of the triangle at the apex (i.e., the vertex (corner) between the two equilateral sides) with the tails of the grosgrain sandwiching the laminated double layers of the DCF patches; stitch the tie-out assemblies in position using a “box-X” stitch pattern and a moderate to long stitch length.

17) Lay out the tarp panel on a clear, flat surface where it can remain undisturbed for about a day with the exterior (top) side down and the interior (bottom) side up (i.e., opposite the orientation in which it was cut in Phase I).

18) Spread a thin, even application of Seam Grip adhesive in each of the corners on the interior side of the tarp in an area congruent with the reinforcement patches and respecting an approximate 1/2″ allowance for the perimeter hem to be executed in Phase V, covering a triangular area approximately 5.5″ deep in each acute (narrow) corner and 3.75″ deep in each obtuse (wide) corner.

19) Position an acute (narrow) bonded double-layer reinforcement patch on each of the two adhesive-covered acute (narrow) corners of the tarp, so that the sewn grosgrain tie-out assemblies are in line with the long diagonal that will form the ridge line of the parallelogram-shaped tarp, set back 1/2″ from each raw edge as a perimeter allowance.

20) Position an obtuse (wide) bonded double-layer reinforcement patch on each of the two adhesive-covered obtuse (wide) corners of the tarp, positions for the lateral tie-outs of the tarp, set back 1/2″ from each raw edge as a perimeter allowance.

21) Spread a thin, even application of Seam Grip adhesive over each of the four (4) bonded double-layer reinforcement patches you glued down in Steps 19 and 20, working the adhesive into the grosgrain ribbon and along its edges, still respecting an approximate 1/2″ allowance for the perimeter hem to be executed in Phase V.

22) Extend the application of the Seam Grip adhesive an additional 1/4″ beyond each double-layer triangle patch along the length of its base on the interior (underside) of the tarp panel, and then cover the area with an congruent (matching) single-layer triangle patch, offset inboard past the base of the double-layer patch underneath it by 1/4″ so that it covers the additional adhesive you applied to the main tarp panel beyond the laminated patch. Minimize any trapped air bubbles or irregularities as you smooth down each of the four (4) corners as firmly as possible.

23) Sandwich all four (4) corners  — each corner now comprising four (4) laminated layers of DCF material with the grosgrain tie-out assembly and all stitching encapsulated — between two layers of wax paper, and weigh them down with heavy objects in a stable fashion so that the can remain undisturbed during the curing process. (Layers of corrugated cardboard outside of the wax paper can help even out the pressure of your weights around the uneven tie-out assemblies while the corners dry.)

WAIT 8 TO 24 HOURS FOR THE ADHESIVE TO CURE BEFORE CONTINUING

PHASE V — FINAL ASSEMBLY

24) With a rotary cutter or sharp knife, trim off a small section of each corner of the main tarp panel perpendicular to the diagonal at that vertex to keep the tie-out assembly hardware exposed.

25) Crease the entire perimeter of the main tarp panel to form a single-fold hem 1/2″ wide, turned toward the interior (bottom) side of the tarp so that it overlaps the reinforcement patches at the four (4) corners.

26) Removing the dull, papery backing layer first, lay down 1/2″ double-sided bonding tape around the entire perimeter of the tarp, working in sections, if necessary, so that the tape is positioned between the raw edges of the tarp panel and the creases you formed in Step 25. Burnish the surface of the tape all the way around to ensure proper adhesion.

27) Again working in sections, if necessary, fold the perimeter hem over onto the main tarp panel and withdraw carefully the remaining shiny backing layer from the 1/2″ double-sided tape, smoothing out irregularities, eliminating air bubbles, re-creasing and burnishing the formed folded hem as you work your way around the perimeter of the tarp to obtain maximum adhesion.

28) Allow the tarp to cure for several hours after completing the perimeter hem with the bonding tape before use.

YOUR TARP IS NOW COMPLETE

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This DIY tutorial article covers complete steps for the construction of an 11-foot Cowboy Trail Boss multipurpose tarp, designed by kitsapcowboy AKA Christian Bynum of Bynum Graphic Design.

It is constructed using Dutch’s Xenon Sil Wide fabric.

The Trail Boss is an efficient, all-season widebody hammock tarp that is optimized for additional pitches on the ground to provide wraparound weather protection in a variety of “bushcraft-style” configurations using some hiking poles (or trail sticks) and the same tarp ridge line, guy lines, and stakes used over a hammock.

The finished size is about 132″ square. The Trail Boss can also be used over two hammocks hanging side by side!

Construction Steps

PHASE I — TARP PANELS

1) To build an 11′ x 11′ Cowboy Trail Boss Tarp, cut and trim the Xenon Wide waterproof fabric into two panels 134″ x 69″, and then orient them in a stack with right sides touching. (They should be free of selvage on both long edges with corners square and opposite sides parallel to form identical rectangles as precisely as possible.)

2) Sew together one long edge of the stacked tarp panels with a seam allowance of no more than 1/4″.

3) Invert the two tarp panels so that they are right side out, putting tension on the seam sewn in Step 2, and fold them so that the edges are aligned and the seam lays flat and crisply creased with the raw edges tucked between the panels.

4) Sew a second row of stitches parallel to the seam sewn in Step 2, approximately 3/8″ to 1/2″ from the previous row, forming a standing (French) seam, the tarp’s ridge line.

5) Lay the joined tarp panels flat, make sure the edges are aligned, and, moving the two layers of fabric together, fold one end of the tarp panels back on top of the other end, so that the two ends of the sewn French seam are stacked; all four corners should also be stacked with the fold running perpendicular to the ridge line seam.

6) Starting at the four stacked corners where the remaining raw edges meet, allowing a 1″ allowance along the short edges of the tarp panels, align the 33″ cat-cut template with the raw edge of the tarp panel running parallel to the ridge line (see overview diagram for Phase I); mark and cut out this shape through all four layers of fabric with a rotary cutter. (Be careful not to let the fabric shift or the template slide as you cut out this shape.)

7) Starting at the inboard end of the 33″ cat-cut formed in Step 6, align the half template for the 66″ cat-cut with the raw edge of the tarp panel running parallel to the ridge line, making sure it is square with the fold at the midpoint of the tarp panels; mark and cut out this shape through all four layers of fabric with a rotary cutter. (Be careful not to let the fabric shift or the template slide as you cut out this shape. Reserve the scraps to make a stuff sack for the tarp.)

8) Mark a point 33.5″ down from the ridge line seam on each tarp panel on each short edge (4 marks total). Mark the midpoint of each tarp panel on the two cat-cut long edges, which should coincide with the exact centers of each of the 66″ cat-cuts. From each of the four outside corners of the tarp, mark a point 5.5″ up toward the ridge line on the short raw edges at the ends of the tarp panels and a mark 5″ into the 33″ cat-cut on the curved edge that will run along the ground parallel to the tarp ridge line. Then set the tarp panels aside.

PHASE II — REINFORCEMENT PATCHES & PERIMETER HEM

9) Cut out four (4) 9″ x 9″ squares of 300D pack cloth. Cut one square in half from midpoint to midpoint on opposite sides to form two (2) 4.5″ x 9″ ridge line reinforcement patches. Cut each of the three remaining 9″ x 9″ squares from corner to corner on each diagonal; each square will yield four (4) triangular edge reinforcement patches with a 9″ base and a 4.5″ height, for a total of twelve (12) triangular patches.

10) Form a folded hem 1/4″ wide on three sides of each rectangular patch cut in Step 9, sewn close to the raw edge with a single row of stitches, leaving one long edge raw on each. Set the hemmed rectangular patches aside.

11) Pick out four (4) triangular patches cut in step 9 for the corners of the tarp, reserve two (2) additional triangular patches, and set them aside. On the remaining eight (8) triangular patches, form a folded hem 1/4″ wide on the two equal sides of each rectangular patch cut in Step 9, sewn close to the raw edge with a single row of stitches, leaving the long edge raw on each. Set the hemmed triangular patches aside.

12) Lay the tarp panels out with the wrong side up (i.e., so that the underside of the tarp is in view), and pick one of the four outside corners. Lay one of the unhemmed triangular patches wrong side up on top of the tarp corner, so that the longer 9″ base edge runs across the corner from edge to edge and aligns with the marks made near each corner in Step 8 with the apex of the triangle pointing inboard toward the center of the tarp panel.

13) Sew a single row of stitches (running in a diagonal relative to the tarp ridge line) 1/2″ inboard across the longer base edge of the triangular patch you positioned on the tarp corner in Step 12, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Flip the triangular patch over along the seam just sewn so that it points out in the direction of the corner, away from the center of the tarp panel, with the right side facing out. Tension both the patch and the tarp corner, and sew a second row of stitches parallel to the first row 1″ away across the triangular patch to secure it flat to the corner of the tarp, hiding the folded raw edge. Trim the patch even with the tarp corner along both the straight and cat-cut edges.

14) Repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the remaining three (3) tarp corners using unhemmed triangular patches.

15) With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one of the four points where the 33″ cat-cuts and 66″ cat-cuts come together, a location for one of the primary side tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed triangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is over this point where the cat-cuts meet and the unhemmed edge is parallel to both the long edge of the tarp and the tarp ridge line.

16) Sew around the perimeter of the hemmed triangular patch you positioned at the side tie-out location with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Then sew a row of stitches across the triangular patch from hemmed edge to hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch, an equal distance from both the base and the apex, securing it to the tarp further. Trim the triangular patch along the base edge even with the curved edges of the cat-cuts.

17) Repeat Steps 15 and 16 for the remaining three (3) side tie-out locations using hemmed triangular patches.

18) With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one of the four points where the 33.5″ down from the tarp ridge line on the short edges at the ends of the tarp panels, as marked in Step 8, a location for one of the tarp’s secondary tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed triangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is over this mark and the unhemmed edge is parallel to the short edge of the tarp panel and perpendicular to the tarp ridge line.

19) Sew around the perimeter of the hemmed triangular patch you positioned at the secondary tie-out location with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Then sew a row of stitches across the triangular patch from hemmed edge to hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch, an equal distance from both the base and the apex, securing it to the tarp further.

20) Repeat Steps 18 and 19 for the remaining three (3) secondary tie-out locations using hemmed triangular patches.

NB: Steps 21 through 23 are OPTIONAL, but they afford you extra ground pitch options with the Trail Boss and allow you additional stability and center internal pole compatibility over a hammock.

21) With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one of the 66″ cat-cuts and find the midpoint, as marked in Step 8, a location for one of the tarp’s two ancillary storm tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed triangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is over this mark and the unhemmed edge is parallel to the short edge of the tarp panel and perpendicular to the tarp ridge line.

22) Sew around the perimeter of the hemmed triangular patch you positioned at the storm tie-out location with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Then sew a row of stitches across the triangular patch from hemmed edge to hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch, an equal distance from both the base and the apex, securing it to the tarp further. Trim the patch to match the tarp edge, if necessary.

23) Repeat Steps 21 and 22 for the other storm tie-out location using the remaining hemmed triangular patch.

With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one end of the ridge line seam, a location for one of the tarp’s ridge line tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed rectangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is on the ridge line seam that joins the two tarp panels and the unhemmed edge is parallel to the short edge of the tarp panel and perpendicular to the tarp ridge line.

25) Taking great care not to sew across the ridge line or catch the standing portion of the French seam that forms it, sew around the perimeter of the hemmed rectangular patch you positioned on the ridge line seam with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel. Then sew two additional rows of stitches across the rectangular patch from short hemmed edge to short hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch (and the long hemmed edge), spaced an equal distance from each other and the long edges of the patch, securing it to the tarp further.

26) Repeat Steps 24 and 25 for the remaining ridge line tie-out location using the other hemmed rectangular patch.

27) With all of the reinforcement patches in place, starting at one corner of the tarp, sew a continuous double-rolled hem approximately 3/8″ wide around the entire perimeter of the tarp, keeping the stitch row close to the inboard rolled edge and taking particular care around the cat-cuts. (Option: Sew a second continuous row of stitches between the first row of stitches and the outside edge of the tarp to secure the roll hem further, adding to its strength and cosmetics when under tension.) With the perimeter hem complete, set the tarp aside.

PHASE III — TIE-OUTS & HARDWARE

28) Cut the 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon into fifteen (15) 8″ pieces. Set fourteen (14) lengths aside, and cut the remaining length into three (3) small tabs, each just over 2.5″ long. Seal all ends on the fourteen (14) 8″ lengths and three (3) 2.5″ tabs with heat from a lighter.

29) To prepare the side tie-out assemblies, which will be mounted at the four tarp corners and on the ground edges at the vertices between the cat-cuts, on eight (8) lengths of the 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon, mount two pieces of hardware at the midpoint, a 1/2″ Beastee Dee Ring underneath and a LineLoc 3 adjuster on top (see photo). Fold the ribbon in half around the hardware and sew a bar tack to secure each assembly.

30) To prepare the supplemental tie-out assemblies for midpoints the straight end edges and the centers of the large cat-cuts, on the remaining six (6) lengths of the 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon, mount a 1/2″ Beastee Dee Ring (see photo). (If you skipped Steps 21 through 23, you only need to prepare four (4) lengths of grosgrain, with two left in reserve.) Fold the ribbon in half around the hardware and sew a bar tack to secure each assembly. Prepare the three (3) small 2.5″ tabs as supplemental ridge line tie-outs with a single 1/2″ Beastee Dee ring mounted on each.

31) Lay the tarp out flat again. Position each of the fourteen (14) tie-out assemblies at its respective location on the tarp panels, centered on the reinforcement patches, with one tail of the grosgrain ribbon on the top side of the tarp and the other tail of the ribbon underside. Verify the hardware complement and direction of each tie-out assembly during placement. (Option: Secure them with clips, pins, or masking tape.)

32) Make certain at each tie-out location that the grosgrain tails are stacked on top of one another precisely and that the tarp panel and reinforcement patch are sandwiched smoothly between them, and then secure each tie-out assembly to the tarp with a “box-X” stitch pattern; start at one of the inboard corners of the ribbon, maintain good tension on the grosgrain, and sew straight and slowly around the perimeter of the tail in a rectangle, followed by an hourglass pattern that connects the four corners of that rectangle with two diagonals. Work around the tarp until all fourteen (14) tie-out assemblies are mounted to the tarp (see overview diagram for Phase III).

33) Fold the tarp in half along the ridge line. Starting at one end of the standing French seam at the ridge line, position the five-yard section of 1.5″ grosgrain so that it is folded over the tab of the standing seam on the tarp, making sure to leave a loose tail of ribbon about 12″ extending past the roll hem on that end of the tarp. Check to make sure the ribbon is folded fairly evenly (approximately 3/4″ on each side of the fold. Make certain the stitch row at the base of the ridge line tab is covered by the half-width of the grosgrain on both sides when the top edge of the tab is pressed completely into the fold (see photo). With these components in position, position the needle of your sewing machine and drop the presser foot so that when the need pierces the materials, it will contact the tab of the standing French seam above the row of stitches at the ridge line and NOT pierce the tarp panels. Verify that your needle is positioned correctly and the tab sandwiched within the folded ribbon is smooth and straight before proceeding to Step 34.

34) With your ridge line components properly aligned, carefully sew a single continuous row of stitches from one end of the ridge line (even with the roll-hemmed edge of the tarp) to the other, so that the stitches fall on the tab of the standing French seam. Work slowly and mind your alignment during this most critical step as you complete the grosgrain-encased ridge line seam, and check your work once this step is complete.

35) Trim the tails of the folded 1.5″ grosgrain to approximately 4″ in length past the roll hem of the tarp, and seal the cut ends with heat from a lighter. Sew the tails closed along the edges to form a folded tail 3/4″ wide on each end. Mount a 3/4″ Beastee Dee Ring on each tail of the folded grosgrain ridge line with a pair of sturdy bar tacks, and then tack down any remaining length of ribbon securely with a row of stitches parallel to the ridge line. (Option: Sew a saddle of extra 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon over the ridge line and down the roll-hemmed edge of the tarp for extra strength in extreme conditions; see photos.) Mount one folded grosgrain ridge line tab with a 1/2″ Beastee Dee perpendicular to the ridge line (i.e., vertically) at the ridge line midpoint using a study bar tack, and mount the remaining two ridge line tabs 33″ away on either side of the midpoint using the same method, completing the auxiliary tie-out points for ground pitches.

YOUR TARP IS NOW COMPLETE.

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