Author: Dutch
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Thru-Hiking for Beginners: Your Ultimate Mileage Cheat Sheet
The Pacific Crest Trail, the Continental Divide Trail and the Appalachian Trail make up the “Triple Crown” of thru-hiking. As a first-time thru-hiker, it can be overwhelming to think about completing a 2,000-mile or 3,000-mile hike. How many miles should you hike each day?
The key to thru-hiking for beginners is to pace yourself. During the first days and weeks, plan to hike shorter distances, then work your way up as you gain experience — plan plenty of zero-mileage days in town for much-needed rest.
Check out our ultimate mileage cheat sheet for planning your AT, PCT or CDT thru-hike. We explain what conditions to expect at the start of each trail and how many miles per day to hike in the first few weeks of your journey.
The Appalachian Trail: What to Expect
More than 3,000 hikers attempt to thru-hike The Appalachian Trail each year. Daily encounters with hikers, multiple shelters and rustic privys make the Appalachian Trail a perfect thru-hike for a beginner.
- Northbound Start Point: Springer Mountain, Georgia
- Northbound End Point: Mount Katahdin, Maine
- Total Miles: About 2,200
- Starting Conditions: The steep approach trail to Springer Mountain adds eight miles to your first day’s mileage. If you’re starting in the spring, be prepared for any weather, including drops in temperature and thunderstorms.
- Mileage Goals: Start with averaging eight to 10 miles a day. In Georgia, take your time to avoid injury and give your body a chance to adjust. You can gradually increase to 15 to 20 miles per day when you enter North Carolina.
The Pacific Crest Trail: What to Expect
Designated as a National Scenic Trail in 1968, the Pacific Crest Trail has gained in popularity over the years, in part due to Cheryl Strayed’s memoir “Wild.” You’ll encounter diverse and beautiful landscapes, from the Mojave desert to the snow-capped Sierra Nevadas.
- Northbound Start Point: United States-Mexico border near Campo, California
- Northbound End Point: United States-Canada border near Manning Park, Washington
- Total Miles:2,653
- Starting Conditions: The start of the PCT is notorious — 700 miles of desert with rough elevation gains. You’ll spend the first few weeks trekking up and down desert peaks and valleys. The trail can stretch as far as 25 miles without a water source, so err on the side of carrying too much water (about two gallons).
- Mileage Goals: Try for eight miles a day for the first week or so. Unless you live in a desert climate, you’ll need to get used to the 100-degree Fahrenheit temperatures. Monitor your water supply and test how much water you can carry in your pack at one time. After a few weeks, you can increase your mileage to 15 to 20 miles per day.
The Continental Divide Trail: What to Expect
The CDT is known for being remote, wild and unfinished. It’s recommended for more experienced hikers, but with planning, maps and a hiking buddy or two, you can accomplish this feat regardless of skill level.
- Northbound Start Point: United States-Mexico border near Hachita, New Mexico
- Northbound End Point: United States-Canada border near Glacier National Park, Montana
- Total Miles:3,100
- Starting Conditions: Depending on when you begin, you’ll encounter moderately hot temperatures and intense New Mexico sunshine. The trail begins on easy, relatively flat land — perfect for getting your bearings.
- Mileage Goals: Aim for eight miles a day at the start. Keep an eye on your water supply and how many miles until the next water cache. Gradually increase your distance per day to 15 to 20 miles or more.
Gear Up for Your First Thru-Hike With DutchWare
When planning a thru-hike as a beginner, use this cheat sheet and bring high-quality gear and equipment that will last. At DutchWare, we carry superior hiking, camping and backpacking products with a minimalist, lightweight design. Browse our inventory of high-quality equipment to gear up for your first thru-hike.
Have any questions? Contact our customer service reps online, or message us on Facebook and Instagram.
Written & Reviewed By Dave Gantz
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The Benefits of Sleeping in a Hammock
6 Benefits of Sleeping in a Hammock
Camping is one of the best ways to truly appreciate the beauty and serenity of the great outdoors. Laying under the stars surrounded by the sounds of nature is the perfect way to fall asleep. As any adventure enthusiast knows, getting a comfortable night’s rest can be difficult without the right backpacking and camping materials.
The team at Dutchware knows how important comfort and convenience are during your trip. We’ve even provided tips for sleeping comfortably in a hammock. We believe that all travelers should learn about the benefits of sleeping in a hammock so they can maximize their enjoyment.
There are many reasons to sleep in a hammock — perhaps the most significant is that certain hammock styles provide advantages that deliver a restful experience no matter where your journeys take you.
Maximum Air Circulation
Although it might not be the first thing that comes to mind, air circulation is highly important when you sleep, especially if you’re camping. Trust us — once you’ve spent a night in a hammock, you’ll never want to sleep in a muggy tent again!
We explore the great outdoors to connect with nature, and it may come as no surprise to learn that simply inhaling the fresh air that our green spaces create is enough to positively impact our well-being.
Fresh air aids our digestive system, improves our cardiovascular health, brightens our mood, strengthens our immune system, cleans our lungs and improves our cognition and energy levels. Lounging and sleeping in a hammock allows you to surround yourself with this fresh air all night long.
Ventilation is another concern that you won’t have to worry about when sleeping in an open hammock, or a bugnet or netless hammock — versus one with a top cover.
Hammock sleeping keeps your body dry and off the ground — but air circulating under you can make you feel colder quicker, which you might know as Cold Butt Syndrome (CBS). This is where an under quilt can keep your bum toasty.
But for hot summer nights, with air free to circulate around your hammock, your body can easily stay dry and cool with breathable hammock fabrics. These fabrics prevent moisture from building up while you sleep. Sweat and condensation are whisked off your body and the hammock alike, which helps regulate your body temperature and keeps your sleeping quarters dry.
Perfect Body Positioning
Believe it or not, the way you choose to fall asleep at night has an effect on your quality of sleep.
You may sleep in one or more of these positions throughout the night: on your back, on your stomach, on your side or in the fetal position. Although these positions are chosen based on personal preference, each of them impacts everybody’s body in the same ways. Stomach sleeping is considered the least desirable position because it does not keep the spine in a neutral position and places pressure on muscles and joints. The fetal position is also unfavorable because it restricts diaphragm breathing and strains your back and hips.
Side sleeping is a better position for your body because it elongates your spine and keeps your airways open. But sleeping on your back is the best way because it keeps the spine, neck and head in natural positions. This can help relieve back or neck pain and reduce acid reflux. Compare that to stomach sleeping, in which your neck is turned at a 90-degree angle and your stomach contents may get worked up into your esophagus. It’s easy to see why back positions are the best.
The best sleep for your body keeps your spine in a natural alignment throughout the night. If possible, keeping your head elevated is also very beneficial. While you could achieve this with a sleeping bag, you run the risk of reverting back to your normal position overnight. Hammocks allow you to comfortably sleep on your back with your head elevated. Your spine will stay aligned and prevent pressure on your bones.
Deeper Sleep
When we think about getting a good night’s rest, many people often associate “quantity” of sleep with “quality” of sleep.
Sleeping in on the weekend or catching up on sleep may seem like a way to feel more rested, but our actual quality of sleep relies on our sleep cycles. There are five different sleep stages that can be separated into two categories: rapid eye movement (REM) and non-REM. As you sleep, your brain moves through all five stages throughout the night.
The initial sleep stage is very light and only lasts for a few minutes. As you transition into the second stage, your brain waves continue to slow down. The third and fourth stages of sleep are considered deep sleep because your eye and muscle activity stops. These stages help the body heal and build up energy. Within 90 minutes, the body enters the REM stage, which can last as long as an hour. You’ll enter this stage multiple times each night as the brain processes and stores information.
Your body needs to naturally progress through these cycles over the course of the night. Unfortunately, many people find that their sleep cycles are interrupted throughout the night. These disturbances cause more than just feeling tired in the morning — they can negatively affect your physical and mental health. A failure to successfully move through the sleep cycles can slow your reflexes, decrease your ability to retain knowledge, cause moodiness, and prevent your body from removing harmful toxins. The constant resetting of the sleep cycle prevents deep sleep.
When you consider the many benefits of sleeping in a hammock, it’s not difficult to see how the hammock’s design naturally helps people achieve and sustain a deeper sleep. Stretching out in a hammock allows you to keep your body in the perfect position for maximum bodily comfort. With an aligned spine and elevated head, you keep pressure off your joints, relax your muscles and enable your body to comfortably settle down for the night.
Studies are also lending support to the idea that the swaying motion of a hammock encourages a faster transition into sleep. Not only is sleep induced in these conditions but it is also sustained. The motion may help increase the duration of the second sleep stage, which is typically the stage of the cycle we spend approximately half of our night in. As research identifies the ways brain waves react to the swaying motion while moving through the sleep cycle, hammock sleeping may help mitigate sleeping disorders.
Helps With Insomnia
While some men and women need a comfortable space to feel well-rested through the night, there are many others who suffer from insomnia that prevents them from getting the sleep they need. As many as 40 million people experience insomnia, which is the most common sleep disorder in the country.
Insomnia is more than just occasional sleeplessness — it can last for days or even weeks at a time. Acute and chronic insomnia may be caused by depression, anxiety, food or drink consumption, unhealthy lifestyle habits or other issues.
Sleeping in a hammock can potentially benefit those who suffer from insomnia. Research conducted in a variety of studies suggests that the swaying motion of a hammock can help the body fall into a deep sleep faster. They parallel this idea with the success many parents have while rocking their babies to sleep. Men and women are undergoing tests to see if the swaying motion can lead to longer periods of sleep and potential treatments for those diagnosed with insomnia.
The key element seems to be the changes in brain activity experienced when a person is attempting to fall asleep while being gently rocked by a hammock. Of the five different sleep stages, swaying is thought to increase the length of the second stage, in which we spend nearly half of our sleep cycle. This motion also increases the number of “sleep spindles,” which are associated with the brain trying to keep the sleep cycle calm during the presence of distractions like external noise.
Though further testing is required, many individuals reported positive results after sleeping in a hammock. One study concluded that hammock sleeping may be a potential cure for some cases of insomnia. While every individual’s experience with insomnia differs, evidence points to hammock sleeping improving the quality and length of sleep for all sleepers, including those diagnosed with sleeping disorders.
Elevated From the Wet Ground
If you’re an avid tent camper, you likely understand the struggle of sleeping on cold, wet ground all night. Plus, if you don’t have many options for location, you could find yourself on rough and bumpy terrain. This isn’t the ideal way to snuggle up while camping, especially after a long day of hiking.
Hammocks eliminate these problems, elevating you off the ground for comfortable and high-quality sleep. Since a hammock relieves some of the pressure on your spine, you’ll likely experience a more restful and rejuvenating snooze, preparing you for another day of breathtaking views.
Quicker and Simpler Setup
After a long day, all you want to do is put your feet up and relax. Before you do that, however, you’ll have to set up your hammock. Luckily, one of the significant benefits of sleeping in a hammock is the little time it takes to start hanging!
Most hammocks come with convenient instructions, which usually start with finding the perfect set of trees. Once that’s done, all you have to do is tie your tree-safe straps to the trees, clip in your hammock, and secure any tarps or quilts you want to use. Once it’s secure, you’ll be ready to hop in and sway yourself to sleep in no time.
Remember that you should aim to hang your hammock at a 30-degree angle and no more than 18 inches off the ground for the most comfortable and safe use.
Reap The Benefits Of Sleeping In A Hammock With Hammocks From Dutchware
Your time outdoors should be exciting, amusing and memorable. Unfortunately, a poor night’s sleep can make you feel groggy, irritable and fatigued when you should be having fun. Make sure you have the best sleep possible with a hammock from Dutchware. We offer reliable hammocks made from high-quality materials that provide the comfort you need for a peaceful night sleeping under the stars. These lightweight backpacking hammocks are ideal for short weekend trips to the campground and long treks where campsites may be sparse.
Ready to experience the best sleep you’ve ever had while camping? Contact our team at Dutchware and we’ll help you select the hammock that caters to your outdoor lifestyle.
Check Out These Sleeping Articles
- 12 Tips for Staying Warm While Hammocking
- Sleeping Well While Camping
- Essential Tips for Hammock Camping in The Winter
- Keep Bugs Away While Camping
- 6 Beneficial Hammock Sleeping Tips
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DIY Ultralight Backpack Tutorial
In this video tutorial series, TwoFoolsWalking will take us step by step on how to create an ultralight backpack!
For anyone who may be looking to make their own backpack as opposed to buying one, this video series provides important information as well as clear and easy-to-follow steps on how to complete the process. Follow along as they use Dutchware Gear fabric to create their ultralight backpack.
Be sure to check out the videos and images below for full details on how to make your very own backpack, and see the finished product below.
PART 1
PART 2
PART 3
Similar DIY Pack Projects
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Making Your Own Outdoor Gear – 5 Tips & 5 Benefits
Whether you’re a veteran backpacker or a newcomer on the trails, making your own outdoor gear is a rewarding, cost-effective way to meet your backpacking and camping needs.
Starting a new activity, like do-it-yourself (DIY) camping gear, can be challenging at first. Embrace the opportunity to learn new skills, including how to use a sewing machine. You’ll be rewarded with high-quality camping equipment built according to your specifications.
Wholesale backpacking equipment can be found here.
5 Tips For Creating Your Own BackPacking Gear
Here are five tips and tricks as you dive into DIY outdoor gear.
1. Embrace the Learning Curve
When it comes to creating your own gear, passion is more important than sewing experience. You might be a natural-born sewer or may have never used a sewing machine in your life. Either way, you’ll likely encounter a learning curve. Stick with it — creating your own equipment pays off with an innovative product you can be proud of.
2. Start Small and Work Up to Bigger Projects
Practice really does make perfect. You may be itching to create a quilt or make your own bridge hammock, but we recommend honing your skills with smaller projects first.
Start by sewing a Climashield pillow, pack cover kit or drawstring backpack. Then, enjoy the fruits of your labor on your next backpacking trip. These beginner-level DIY projects are the perfect starting point.
3. Get Creative With Your Backpacking DIY Projects
Making your own outdoor gear gives you the chance to be as creative as you wish. You can choose from a variety of fabric colors and patterns to fit your style. DutchWare’s Print2Fabric gear includes a range of designs for hammocks, tarps and more. We can even customize Print2Fabric gear — simply contact us online.
4. Measure Twice, Cut Once
When measuring your fabric, use a sturdy ruler and mark the fabric with chalk. It’s good practice to leave extra room for seam allowances to avoid having to recut the pattern. When in doubt, measure again!
If you’re new to working with fabric, buy 25% more yardage than you expect to use. That way, when you make mistakes, you won’t have to put the project on hold to order extra fabric.
5. Ask for Help
As a new member of the DIY outdoor gear community, you have many resources to help you navigate challenges while designing and building your own equipment. Plus, if you know someone with sewing experience, use them as a handy resource to grow your skills.
5 Benefits of Creating DIY Camping & Backpacking Gear
Making camping and backpacking gear on your own can be a fantastic experience because it helps you realize just how capable and courageous you really are. It’s empowering to know you don’t actually need constant access to technology or plumbing, or even to sleep in your own bed. In fact, you can be just fine in the wilderness — even without specialized camping gear.
Homemade backpacking, hiking and camping gear comes with several perks, including:
1. Lower Costs
DIY camping and backpacking gear is often less expensive than commercial equipment. These days, it’s entirely possible to make a comparable piece of equipment for far less than what it would cost to buy it.
2. Aesthetics
DIY camping gear challenges your skill, creativity, and discipline, much like any other do-it-yourself project. Aesthetics here refers to the way something is done — and the joy of that journey often trumps the end result.
3. The Joy of Customization
Make gear that meets your specifications, including color, fabric type, sizing, and other features.
4. Innovation
Much of the recent advancements in ultralight camping and backpacking gear can be attributed to DIYers and other businesses not afraid to play around with unconventional designs. As a beginner or expert, making your own gear will put you up there with those individuals striving to make outdoor fun more cost-effective, creative, and personalized.
5. Simplification
DIY camping gear allows you to remove extra features on an item and strip it down to its primary functions. You’re not held captive by market trends when you exercise self-sufficiency in making your own gear. For instance, maybe all the major camping gear companies came out with bigger and better hip belt pockets to outdo one another and vie for your attention — but hip belt pockets aren’t your thing. Well, you’ve just simplified your gear to meet your own preferences.
Make Your Own Backpacking Gear With DutchWare
We carry a wide selection of durable, reliable components for hiking and camping gear. At DutchWare, you can find everything you need to make your own outdoor gear, all in one place. We even offer a quality and satisfaction guarantee. Browse our DIY materials and find the perfect components for your next project.
From basic equipment to specialized, customizable gear, our inventory offers innovative, high-quality products for any skill level. Our use of cutting-edge materials reduces your gear’s weight for ultra-light backpacking.
Want to bring your unique vision for DIY gear to life? Reach out to us online. For the latest DIY tips, follow us on Facebook and Instagram.
Check Out Our DIY Guides
If you’re ready to get started with making your own hiking gear, check out some of our DIY guides below:
- DIYer’s Guide to Cat Cuts & Cat Cut Tarps
- DIY Drawstring Backpack
- DIY Compression Stuff Sack
- All About Zippers
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All About Zippers
When you make your own camping or backpacking equipment, you have the advantage of making something that best fits your unique needs. When you buy something from the store, it may not do everything you need it to, or it may have extras you don’t need. Making your own equipment with a zipper lets you fully customize your equipment, so it’s all your own.
The zipper is an important part of several pieces of common equipment. When you’re choosing the right materials for your gear, you need to select the right zipper. Read on to learn more about the different types, so you can choose the right option for everything from hammocks to tents to clothing.
Different Types of Zippers
There are several different types and styles of zippers you can use to make your gear. For example, you’ll want to decide between a coil or toothed zipper depending on your needs. A coil zipper has teeth made from coiled monofilament, which is typically nylon. The coiled teeth then get sewn to a zipper tape to make the final zipper. Toothed zippers are usually plastic or metal and are made on polyester or cotton tape.
The three main types of zippers include:
- Two-Way Separating Zippers: With two pulls, you can place the opening of the zipper wherever you need it to go. When the zipper is fully opened, it can come apart completely. These zippers are commonly used for removable hammock tops.
- One-Way Separating Zippers: This type of zipper has the same ability to separate when fully opened, but it has one pull instead of two. This means you can only open it from one place. This type of zipper is common for jackets.
- Non-Separating Zippers: These types of zippers are also common on other items besides hammocks, such as pockets or tents. They’re used where the zipper is never fully separated, even when it’s opened the full way.
Each type of zipper has its own properties. When you’re making your own gear, you need to think about these properties so you can choose the type of zipper that will give the gear the qualities you want.
Parts of a Zipper
Before you decide on a zipper for your gear, be sure you know the different parts:
- Teeth: The elements that make up the chain.
- Material: The type of chain used to make the zipper, including metal, molded plastic or coil.
- Chain Size: The size of the teeth.
- Zipper Tape: The fabric part of your zipper.
- Slider: What you use to move up and down the chain to open or close your zipper.
- Pull Tab: What you hold on the slider to move your zipper up and down.
Zipper Options From DutchWare
At DutchWare, we have all of the materials you need to make your own custom gear. With different fabrics, hardware and zippers available, we carry what you need to design the perfect gear.
We carry two-way and one-way separating zippers, as well as non-separating zippers. They each have their own benefits, so you can find the right one that best fits your needs and what you want out of your hammock.
We aim to give each of our customers what they need to make custom equipment for camping and backpacking. With an excellent variety of products available, we’re the one-stop shop you need to get ready for your upcoming trip.
From zippers and other rolled goods to cooking gear and more, DutchWare has the selection and quality you need to make the perfect new gear for any camping or backpacking trip.
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Backpacking Gear List for Beginners
Getting into any new activity or hobby means you have to get through a learning curve. Whether it’s learning the basic skills necessary to do it or picking up the right gear and equipment, it may take a little bit to get through this period.
Backpacking is a great activity because almost anyone can do it — from serious athletes to those who want to get some more exercise. You can enjoy the outdoors, get out of the house and learn a lot about the world around you.
Like with any new activity, being a beginner is a little intimidating. That’s why DutchWare is here to make sure you have all the gear you need to get out on your very first backpacking trip! Be sure to pick up the following six items.
1. Backpack
This might be an obvious one, but you need a sturdy pack you can rely on through any conditions. You don’t carry a backpack — you wear it. So, it should have the proper fit for your body, gear and activity.
2. Sleeping Gear
When you’re starting out, you may stick to day trips for a little while. After a few day trips, though, you’ll probably want to take an overnight backpacking trip. For these excursions, you will need a shelter — such as a hammock or tent — and a sleeping bag or quilt.
In case of inclement weather, you’ll need additional gear to waterproof your sleeping arrangements, like a tarp.
3. Cooking Tools and Eating Utensils
When you’re out in the wilderness, you need some simple cookware to make healthy meals to keep you going. Camp kitchen gear like stoves, utensils, cooking pots and more are all important if you’ll be out for more than a day.
4. Other Contents for Your Back
In addition to your personal items, you’ll need to bring some other smaller items with you. A medical kit and other emergency supplies, a headlamp or other types of lights, food and a survival knife are some of the necessities for backpacking trips.
5. Footwear and Clothes
Even if you bring along all the right equipment, it won’t matter if you aren’t wearing the right gear. When you’re out on your backpacking trip, whether it’s just for one day or several, you need to be prepared for anything. Wearing layers, sleeves and long pants will help protect you from insects, foliage, rain and other elements. There is no such thing as bad weather — only bad clothes.
A good pair of hiking shoes, such as trail runners or boots, is also essential. You’ll be on your feet for a long time, so you need a pair of quality hiking shoes to support them.
Get All Your Backpacking Essentials at DutchWare
At DutchWare, we carry a variety of top-quality gear to get you outside and help you have a great experience. From basic equipment like the types above to our specialized, customizable gear, DutchWare has everything you need for your next trip, no matter your skill level.
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Beginner’s Guide To Choosing The Right Hammock
Hammocks have an incredible history. Native people in Central and South America created hammocks to help them stay cool while they slept in the hot, humid environment. In the Galapagos, people slept in “hamacas” woven from tree bark and later from cloth. The hammock allows air to circulate beneath sleepers and carry heat away. Secondly, the hammock suspended its user above the ground. This meant people had less to worry about regarding poisonous snakes, stinging insects and other dangers. Today, modern users enjoy the hammock for many of the same reasons.
Buying your first hammock is an exciting moment! It’s a small piece of equipment that slips into any backpack without trouble. And yet despite its unobtrusive size, it can turn any pair of trees into your kingdom of comfort.
When you go about choosing your first hammock, you’ll want to take a few considerations into account. There are things like the main purpose of the hammock, the type of weather and temperatures you’re likely to experience, your height and weight, what range of activities the hammock might be used for and much more. This article is here to help guide you through the process and help you make a perfect choice.
Why Buy a Hammock?
We assume you don’t need to be told why hammocks are so awesome — lightweight materials, breathability, versatility in different types of weather and temperatures, natural air conditioning and being off the forest floor, to name a few — but there are some lesser-known reasons why they are so enduring.
For example, imagine thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail. You won’t always have a camp-friendly patch of smooth, flat ground when it’s time to call it a night. Backpackers appreciate the ability to camp anywhere they want, whether it be on rocky terrain or atop a mountain. As long as you have two trees, a hammock makes that possible.
Also, sleeping in a hammock is more comfortable than making your bed on a forest floor. You’ll feel more rested, and a lot less achy, when it’s time to hike on. Consider falling asleep in a stuffy, hot tent or a hammock, breathing cool, fresh air under a star-filled sky. You’ll feel better when you wake up in a hammock because you will have spent the night cradled by nature.
Lastly, if you’re worried you won’t have bug protection, think again. You can equip your hammock with bug netting to keep you free of scratching and swatting in the middle of the night.
What to Consider When Purchasing Your First Hammock
You’ll want a hammock designed to fit your lifestyle and comfort needs, so consider a few factors before you shop.
1. Intended Use
Your hammock should be appropriate for your use. For example, a hammock for sleeping on hiking trips will be more durable than one for lounging by an outdoor pool.
The material will tell you more about its quality and intended use. Go with a hammock made of polyester or nylon if it could get wet. A cotton hammock will serve you well for occasional use in mild climates.
2. Size and Weight Limits
Hammocks come in two sizes — single and double. A single-size hammock is suitable for one person, and a double leaves enough room for two.
Most single hammocks support upwards of 300-400 pounds, and double hammocks can support up to 500 pounds. Single hammocks are typically 8 to 12 feet long, while double hammocks range from 10 to 12 feet.
3. Suspension Accessories
Some hammocks are compatible with reinforced suspension straps and accessories. Strong suspension straps enable you to relax above the ground safely. Make sure the hammock you are interested in works with your suspension technology. Pay attention to the suspension straps’ material, weight limits, and corrosion resistance.
Camping or Lounging Hammocks?
The first question you should ask yourself is what you’ll want to use your hammock for. There are two schools of thought here:
- Camping: A camping hammock is used in place of a mattress pad, tent and sleeping bag for camping trips. Whether you want to sleep outside in the woods behind your house or go for an extended camping trip, a hammock provides the chance to get off the ground and experience the great outdoors in a unique way. Camping hammocks are generally outfitted with different bells and whistles — zippers, accessory packages and design features — that make them ideal for comfortable overnighting.
- Lounging: Chances are good you’ve lounged in a hammock before. Here, the requirements are less strict. Lounging hammocks can be made of a multitude of materials and are generally better suited for reading, relaxing, napping and spending time with friends. While one could technically sleep in a lounging hammock, the fact that camping hammocks are specifically designed for comfort and sleeping means it’s wise to choose a camping hammock for sleeping.
Let’s go into a bit more depth on each of these choices below.
Camping Hammocks
If you are interested in hiking, camping or another outdoor activity that takes you off the beaten path, a camping hammock is recommended. A camping hammock is designed to let a person sleep “flat” — that is, not bent at the waist as with a typical lounging hammock. The material is made to be sturdy and comfortable. Additionally, a camping hammock should not let too much air through to avoid chilling.
If you are considering backpacking for extended distances, you will likely prioritize weight above all else. If you are planning on using the hammock for camping alone, durability is going to be the key factor.
An excellent choice for your first camping hammock is the Chameleon. This has quickly become an industry standard for hammock camping due to its full-featured design, which incorporates all of the needs of campers. The hammock is adaptable to a wide range of temperatures, making it perfect for camping in different seasons.
You can also modify it through different components and add-ons. Whether you are looking for pockets for storage, top covers or other accessories, this hammock is decked out for long-term modification and usability. It is truly the only hammock you will ever need — a pretty good promise for a beginner hammock.
Lounging Hammocks
Hammocks for lounging live by a less stringent set of principles, as they must perform a less rigorous task. They should still be lightweight, breathable and durable, though — and Dutchware’s netless hammocks are up to the task.
These feature hammock bodies that are sewn into a single- or double-layer hammock. The suspension is customizable. All four sides of the hammock are hemmed, and the ends feature triple-sewn channels. These hammocks come in two sizes — 58 inches wide and 11 feet long, or 70 inches wide and 11 feet long, providing plenty of room for stretching out.
Can’t make up your mind between a lounging or a camping hammock? Luckily, you don’t have to. A netless hammock can easily be made ready for a camping trip with bugnets and socks. Also, a netless hammock still features plenty of conveniences like a stuff sack with double ends and different materials to choose from for your comfort. NylonD, which is made from nylon, is soft to the touch and strong against ripping. Dobby has a checkered design and is made from nylon and polyester — it is also resistant to stretching. Finally, Hexon is a durable fabric that offers three weight classifications and many color options.
Knowing Your Height and Weight
Have you ever slept in a bed that was too small? It’s about as comfortable as wearing your childhood jacket. With hammocks, it’s especially important to choose the right size for your weight, because every square inch of the hammock plays into forming the right shape for you.
When it comes to the hammock’s physical dimensions — that is, height and breadth — your options will be fairly limited. However, this is nothing to worry about, as most people fit comfortably into an 11-foot hammock. You may be interested in choosing between a standard and a wide hammock, though. This feature is offered in the netless and Chameleon hammocks and is useful for those who require a bit more room. A wide hammock provides an extra 12 inches of space for taller people to stretch out.
Of more immediate importance is buying the correct hammock for your weight. Dutchware Gear hammocks offer a selection of different materials, each rated for a different weight. The Chameleon is one example. This hammock offers the following options for body fabric, which are weight-rated as follows:
- Hexon 1.0: This fabric features a 200-pound weight rating
- Hexon 1.6: A slightly stronger weave that features a 350-pound weight rating
- Hexon 2.4: The strongest available, with a 400+ pound weight rating
- NylonD Wide 1.7: This is an excellent silky, wide fabric, with a 300-pound weight rating
- Hexon Wide 1.6: Strong, cotton like, wide fabric with a 350 pound weight rating
- TrueTimber: Offers a 325-pound weight rating
It’s generally wise to choose a hammock that has a higher weight rating than you need. For instance, if you weigh 200 pounds, it’s better to buy a hammock in the next weight category up. This allows room for extra sleeping garments, storage items and sufficient strength for sitting down suddenly on the hammock without straining it.
In summary, a hammock is generally a “one size fits all” type of operation. Certain hammocks offer wider spans, but the main consideration that you must pay attention to is weight. The added benefit is that this helps narrow down your choices when shopping, preventing option overload.
Choosing a Hammock That Allows You to Progress
If you are buying your first hammock, you may not want to feel forced to choose between lounging and camping. Perhaps you would like a hammock that can do a bit of both while you figure out how it fits into your lifestyle.
In this case, look for a hammock like the Chameleon that offers comfort and easy setup. Choosing the wider version of the Chameleon will allow you to sit or stretch out sideways, which is ideal for gatherings with friends. Additionally, the Chameleon allows a range of laying positions that are perfect for reading, napping or just enjoying the afternoon breeze.
Hammocks for lounging and camping don’t always have to be mutually exclusive. Check out Dutchware’s large selection of quality hammocks to find one that can accommodate any type of activity you choose.
What Accessories to Use With the Hammock You Choose
Whether you’re napping on a sunny afternoon or camping for the night, you’ll want to check out some of the accessories available for hammocks. Many of these are the result of innovation by Dutchware Gear and offer new levels of convenience:
- Bugnet: A must-have for hammock camping in the summertime and a divine luxury for lounging and reading, the bugnet is a lightweight addition that’s easy to attach. Made with Nanoseeum, Dutchware hammock bugnets are fitted with a shock cord and lock that make attachment to the hammock effortless.
- Sock: Hammock socks come in summer and winter varieties. Summer socks work best with a ridgeline and come in either 10- or 11-foot lengths. Socks can be rotated to adjust the amount of venting and heat retention and include an excellent DWR to protect the quilt. Winter socks also include a Nanoseeum panel that allows for complete adjustment — from generous venting to complete coverage. Both socks work with ridgelines, and both are lightweight for easy travel.
- Suspensions: There are many different ways to hang a hammock, but at Dutchware, we like to keep it simple. For example, our Titanium Beetle Buckles are versatile buckles that leave other suspension pieces in the dust. Their wings allow for easy tension and release and the anchor connection allows you to disconnect the suspension entirely. There are many other options, such as whoopie hooks which allow you to turn two single hammocks into one double hammock but works just as well alone. The Marlin Spike Hitch Complete Suspension set lets you use the marlin spike hitch and toggle method for lightweight attachments. Finally, the Tato Gear Hammock Stand is the easiest way to set up your hammock anywhere you wish, no trees required.
- Ridgeline: Ridgelines are great for holding up tarps or attaching bug nets or top covers. There are two types of ridgelines, adjustable and fixed, which serve different purposes. Adjustable ridgelines come either as Universal Constrictor Rope or Whoopie Slings, and titanium Ridgeline Biners allow you to disconnect it without hassle. Fixed ridgelines come slightly shorter than the length of the hammock — about 83 percent, to be exact.
- Double ended stuff sack: A lightweight, waterproof double ended stuff sack lends a helping hand when hanging a hammock, and it makes hammock-packing fast and easy.
If all of the hammock accessories confuse you then feel free to read our hammock camping checklist here.
Beginner’s Guide to Hammock Camping
Once you’ve chosen your hammock, it’s time for a quick refresher on how to properly use it. Here are some quick tips for hammock camping:
- Protect the trees: Place straps around trees to prevent your hammock from gouging and damaging its bark. Polyester is a great material for hammock straps and should be around 1.5 inches wide.
- Shoot for 30 degrees: How much should your ropes angle downward? The rule of thumb is 30 degrees. Resist the temptation to go too tight — this can put a deceptively large amount of force on the trees and make the hammock wobbly.
- Learn to love the deep sag: You want your hammock to sag pretty significantly in the middle. Though this might look like a nightmare for your spine, it will actually allow you to sleep comfortably, when you…
- Lie diagonally in the hammock: Yes — this is the secret for hammock sleeping that has somehow managed to elude most people who have lain in hammocks. Lie at a diagonal, and you will sleep as straight as a board.
- Use an under-quilt: Air circulation is a blessing, especially when it’s muggy outside. However, hammocks are so good at this that they can chill you at temperatures below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a sleeping pad or under-quilt to stay warm. An under-quilt is suspended beneath the hammock, whereas a pad is placed inside the hammock. If it’s warm, a thin blanket will do.
Use Dutchware As Your Hammock Buying Guide
No matter what style of hammock you choose, Dutchware offers the best quality, durability, breathability and value on the market. We are a one-stop-shop for all your DIY gear needs and hammock needs. Our innovations have spurred progress in the hammock and camping industries, and we are happy to be at the center of the movement.
Our no-knot hardware makes setting up hammocks easier. We also reduce the weight with cutting-edge materials, rope and webbing. Our products are ultra light, high-quality, innovative and easy to use. Just peruse our website to see why we are one of the most trusted names in hammock camping.
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12 Tips for Hammocking in the Rain
12 Tips for Hammocking in the Rain
While others may feel that rain during hammocking is a hassle, it’s actually not that bad. Sure, there are disadvantages every time it rains while you’re in the woods, but there are certainly a lot of great things you can do when this happens. Here are some tips that you can apply when you are hammocking on a rainy day.
Tip 1: Bring a Tarp or Rain Fly
It is very important to have a tarp on top of your hammock and make sure that you have enough room under it. You should bring waterproof hammock tarps at least 1 foot longer than your hammock. Common shapes are rectangle, hex and winter. Some tarps (AKA winter tarps) may have a door on the ends that closes for additional 360-degree protection, so you can opt for this too. Tarps will not only protect you from the rain but also give a generous dry area under which to cook, lounge, store gear, and pack up.
If you’ve hammocked in the rain before, you may already own a waterproof rain tarp. While you’re packing for your next rain excursion, make sure your tarp or rain fly is free of holes and tears, which could make your rain camping experience uncomfortable. For added safety during your trip, bring repair supplies — like patches — to handle any damage that happens while you’re hammocking.
When setting up your hammock in the rain, handle your tarp first. Doing this will allow you a dry space to stash your gear and set up your hammock so that your tarp is the only thing that gets wet. You’ll also want to angle your tarp to most effectively block the rain. If the rain is blowing in a particular direction, ensure that your rain cover faces it.
Tip 2: Hang Your Hammock Higher
The best way to stay dry in the rain is to stay up high. You may think you’re safe from puddles and mud when you have a hammock hanging above the ground, but you can add to your rain protection by suspending your hammock higher than usual. You can protect your hammock from splashes and mud by suspending it farther off the ground.
For enhanced train protection, hang your hammock close to your tarp or rain fly. This placement will keep rain from coming into your hammock.
Another great product to keep your hammock dry and protected is an under quilt protector. This covers the hammock and under quilt from splashes and keeps dew away, and offers slight wind protection.
Tip 3: Add Hammock Drip Lines
A neat trick to prevent water from running down your suspension is to tie a string on it close to the hammock. If water is running down, it will stop at the string and drip off. These lines hung on your hammock are called drip lines.
Another way to protect your hammock from water running in is to twist your hammock straps. This method eliminates the smooth surface, so water is more likely to drip off than accumulate and roll down your hammock straps.
Tip 4: Adding Extra Warmth With Quilts
You should insulate your hammock with quilts, like an under and top quilt. Underquilts protect from drafts and breezes under your hammock, while top quilts are more like a sleeping bag, but rather than wrapping fully around you, they lay on top.
Another way you can add extra warmth is to hammock with a buddy. If you often hammock in rainy weather with a spouse or friend, you can buy a two-person hammock to stay warm even when it is wet and chilly
Tip 5: Bring Your Sleeping Bag If You Don’t Have Hammock Quilts
In cold and rainy weather, you will most likely want an extra layer to keep you warm while you sleep. To stay cozy in your hammock, bring a sleeping bag, preferably a mummy-style bag, which wraps around your head. If you pack a sleeping bag, ensure it’s rated for temperatures 10 to 15 degrees cooler than you expect so you’ll stay nice and toasty even in the chilly rain.
Tip 6: Cover Your Belongings
One advantage of hammock camping is that you can keep all your gear dry without dirtying your sleeping space. While you sleep at night, ensure that all of your equipment is under your rain tarp so that you won’t have to put on soaked boots or a damp jacket when you wake up.
Another way to keep your shoes dry is to overturn them on a rock or stick. This way, the soles will protect the fabric tops from collecting moisture.
Lastly, you might want to consider a ground cloth to keep your equipment dry and clean if the forest floor is wet or muddy.
Tip 7: Finding the Right Area For Hammock Camping In The Rain
Choosing the ideal spot is essential when you want a good time hammocking in the rain. That’s why you are encouraged to choose areas that are slightly elevated and are away from bodies of water like lakes or rivers. There’s a high chance that flooding would occur in the area, especially when it’s raining hard.
Also, don’t hammock under a tree. If it can’t be helped, especially when you are bringing a hammock and you’d need to attach its ropes, stay out of the tree’s leaves or branches as much as possible. After a heavy downpour, water would still keep on dripping, and you might find this annoying, or you might get injured from falling branches because of the wind. You can resolve this by lengthening your hammock’s ropes.
Another thing you can do to make your hammocking experience more enjoyable is to find a location with a wind barrier. This barrier could include an area with high rocks or simply a densely forested area where wind and rain cannot reach through the canopy of the trees.
Lastly, face your hammock in the sun’s direction. You’ll want to be hit by the sun’s rays first thing in the morning. The rising sun will surely help dry your stuff as soon as possible.
Tip 8: Layer your Hiking Clothes and Gear
Before you embark, you’ll need to prepare an appropriate set of hiking clothes and gear. This tip is important because this will not only keep you dry but also maintain your temperature the whole time. Thus, it’s essential that you only wear and bring what’s suitable for a rainy day.
First, prepare your underclothes. You can pick clothes made of wool or polyester as they are warmer and dry easily compared to cotton. For your hiking layers and gear, a waterproof backpack cover, jacket, or a rain poncho would do. Lastly, it may not be necessary, but wearing bright colors can help if you’re with a group and you’d like to get spotted easily.
Tip 9: Practicing Your Setup
If you’re hammocking during a rainy season, you can prepare ahead of time for the conditions you might experience by practicing assembling and taking down your hammock setup. This way, if it starts to pour while you’re hiking, you can create a dry and comfortable shelter as quickly as possible.
You’ll especially want to practice setting up your tarp. Afterward, you can stow your gear underneath without fear of getting wet. You can also set up your hammock under the tarp so that your sleeping area stays dry.
Tip 10: Adding Light Fixtures
As it’s raining, making a fire pit would be difficult. That’s why installing simple lighting is a great alternative. You can simply bring LED lights, lanterns, or even just flashlights would do.
Some lighting fixtures also have that aesthetic appeal to them, so they’re great for creating an ambiance in your area.
Tip 11: Bringing Warm and Comforting Food
Nothing beats a cup of hot cocoa on a rainy day so might as well bring it during hammocking. Hot drinks and food are great during this time. These will not only keep you warm but will also give you that comforting feeling.
It’s also a good idea to bring foods that are rich in carbohydrates. Because you are not only using your energy from setting up your camp and hiking along the way, calorie-rich foods are a satisfying treat when you want to maintain your body’s temperature.
Keep in mind that the colder the area, the more energy is being used to keep you warm. Thus, don’t feel guilty that you’re bringing a sinful snack or two. It’ll make your time even more enjoyable and worthwhile.
Make Sure You Prepare for Hammocking in the Rain
Hammocking in the rain is not as bad as it may seem. In fact, some people even prefer this kind of weather over a hot and sunny day. Thus, if you would love to give this a try, you can follow the tips mentioned above to enjoy the rain.
Another way to prepare for cold, rainy weather is to have the best supplies. DutchWare has all the hammocking supplies to keep you cozy and comfortable, including tarps, quilts, rain gear, and more. Shop our hammock camping gear, or contact us online with any questions!
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Curtis Differential Underquilt
Overview: The YouTube video provided will give full details but basically I constructed a rectangular Underquilt with a my own way of achieving a differential cut both length and width wise (I think both are helpful or even necessary) and a kinda prototype clew suspension although I can hang it with traditional incubator type suspension
Steps: photos and YouTube video provide steps but you basically need to plan well first all dimensions to account for several things and then mark all that off then sew on baffles and shells together then stuff.
Materials: ARGON 90 and down from Dutch. A few other bits like 1/4 inch grosgrain – 1/8 inch shock cord – Mara 70 thread – and 0.67 mesh – all from Dutch.
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DIY Cowboy D.A.R.T. (Dyneema Asym Recon Tarp)
This DIY tutorial article covers complete steps for the construction of an 11-foot Cowboy D.A.R.T. — the Dyneema Advanced Recon Tarp — designed by kitsapcowboy AKA Christian Bynum of Bynum Graphic Design. It is a compact directional parallelogram asym tarp — ultralight weather protection for the hardcore hammock camper — that weighs about 3 ounces; it is constructed using Dyneema Composite Fabric (formerly known as Cuben Fiber).
Project Overview
Skill Level Estimated Time Estimated Cost Intermediate to Advanced Approx 2 days $$ Materials and Tools
Materials Needed: Tools Needed: 3.5 to 4 Yards 0.51 oz Dyneema Composite Fabric* Sewing Machine 3 Feet 1/2″ Grosgrain Ribbon Rotary Cutter or Sharp Blade (required) 4 1/2″ Beastee Dee Rings Cutting Mat (or other flat ablative surface) Gear Aid Seam Grip Seam Sealer/Adhesive Ruler, Protractor, and Marker (required) 30 Feet 1/2″ 3M 9485PC Bonding Tape Lighter Guttermann Mara 70 Thread Wax Paper (required) and Corrugated Cardboard (optional) * The Cowboy D.A.R.T. can be constructed from as little as 3.5 linear yards of DCF; however, purchasing 4 full yards will allow one to have DCF left over to make a matching stuff sack for this ultralight tarp, and it will also simplify marking and cutting of the reinforcement patches in proper alignment with the weave of the UHMWPE fibers, as well as provide extra material in case of errors occur cutting or applying the reinforcements. Extra DCF can be reserved for other small projects or near-seamless permanent repairs of the D.A.R.T. over its service lifetime.
Construction Steps
PHASE I — TARP PANEL
1) To build the Cowboy D.A.R.T., lay out your run of DCF and trim away both selvage edges with a rotary cutter or sharp knife exactly parallel to the weave, removing the transparent material right up to the first woven UHMWPE fibers, retaining as much width as possible (54″ to 55″).
2) Trim your full-width DCF panel (with edges removed) to 119″ long and reserve the spare rectangle of DCF fabric for future projects or repairs.
3) The D.A.R.T. has a cardinal lay direction over a gathered-end hammock (even though its lay direction can be reversed expediently in the field). If you are building the tarp for head left/feet right diagonal lay (typical), start at one end of your panel with the short edge in front of you; mark 13″ up the long edge on your left side, and cut diagonally from this mark to the corner at your right side (so that the cut edge created slants toward you from left to right). If you are building the tarp for head right/feet left diagonal lay (so-called “reverse lay”), start at one end of your panel with the short edge in front of you; mark 13″ up the long edge on your right side, and cut diagonally from this mark to the corner at your left side (so that the cut edge created slants away from you from left to right, as shown in the photo below).
4) Make another diagonal cut exactly parallel to the one you just made at the other end of your tarp panel, forming a perfect parallelogram. NB: The side of the DCF facing up during this operation will become the top (outside) surface of the tarp (which you may wish to mark temporarily with a piece of masking tape). Reserve the two large DCF triangles you removed when making the cuts is in Steps 3 and 4, and set the tarp panel aside.
PHASE II — TARP TIE-OUT ASSEMBLIES
5) Cut four (4) 8″ lengths of 1/2″ polyester grosgrain ribbon, and seal all of the ends with a lighter to prevent fraying.
6) Mount a 1/2″ Beastee Dee ring at the midpoint of one length of 1/2″ grosgrain, fold the ribbon in half, and stitch the Beastee Dee into position on the ribbon with a light bar-tack immediately behind the hardware. The tails of the folded ribbon should be of equal length.
7) Repeat Step 6 for the remaining Beastee Dee rings and cut lengths of grosgrain ribbon from Step 5 to yield a total of four (4) tie-out assemblies; set these assemblies aside.
PHASE III — TARP PANEL RENIFORCEMENTS, PART 1 (LAMINATION)
8) Aligning the diagonals from point to point with the weave of the fabric, cut out six (6) rhombi (i.e., equilateral diamond shapes) with a 10″ height (long diagonal) and a 6.25″ width (short diagonal); set four (4) of the rhombi aside, leaving two (2).
9) Cut one rhombus in half along the long diagonal to form two (2) iscoseles triangles with a 10″ base, the obtuse (wide) triangle patches to be positioned at the side corners, and set them aside for Phase IV.
10) Cut one rhombus in half along the short diagonal to form two (2) iscoseles triangles with a 6.25″ base, the acute (narrow) triangle patches to be positioned on the tarp ridge line, and set them aside for Phase IV.
11) With the remaining four (4) rhombi you cut from the DCF material in Step 8, crisply fold two (2) of them along their long diagonals to form double-layer folded isosceles triangles with 10″ bases (obtuse/wide) and two (2) of them along their short diagonal to form double-layer folded isosceles triangles with 6.25″ bases (acute/narrow).
12) Striving for thin and even application of the adhesive with no trapped air bubbles between the two layers of material, apply Seam Grip to the interior surfaces of the four (4) folded double-layer DCF patches, crease them again, and smooth out any irregularities.
13) Place the two (2) acute (narrow) and two (2) obtuse (wide) bonded double-layer DCF triangle patches between layers of wax paper, and weigh them down with heavy objects on a flat surface.
WAIT 8 TO 24 HOURS FOR THE ADHESIVE TO CURE BEFORE CONTINUING
PHASE IV — TARP PANEL RENIFORCEMENTS, PART 2 (SEWING & BONDING)
14) Remove the cured and laminated double-layer triangle patches from the wax paper.
15) Using a protractor, position a grosgrain tie-out assembly completed in Phase II approximately 25 degrees off the centerline (which is aligned with the fabric weave) of each of the two (2) acute (narrow) double-layer DCF triangle patches completed in Phase III, so that the hardware of the tie-out assembly lies opposite the base of the triangle at the apex (i.e., the vertex (corner) between the two equilateral sides) with the tails of the grosgrain sandwiching the laminated double layers of the DCF patches; stitch the tie-out assemblies in position using a “box-X” stitch pattern and a moderate to long stitch length.
16) Position a grosgrain tie-out assembly completed in Phase II on the centerline (which is aligned with the fabric weave) of each of the two (2) obtuse (wide) double-layer triangle patches completed in Phase III, so that the hardware of the tie-out assembly lies opposite the base of the triangle at the apex (i.e., the vertex (corner) between the two equilateral sides) with the tails of the grosgrain sandwiching the laminated double layers of the DCF patches; stitch the tie-out assemblies in position using a “box-X” stitch pattern and a moderate to long stitch length.
17) Lay out the tarp panel on a clear, flat surface where it can remain undisturbed for about a day with the exterior (top) side down and the interior (bottom) side up (i.e., opposite the orientation in which it was cut in Phase I).
18) Spread a thin, even application of Seam Grip adhesive in each of the corners on the interior side of the tarp in an area congruent with the reinforcement patches and respecting an approximate 1/2″ allowance for the perimeter hem to be executed in Phase V, covering a triangular area approximately 5.5″ deep in each acute (narrow) corner and 3.75″ deep in each obtuse (wide) corner.
19) Position an acute (narrow) bonded double-layer reinforcement patch on each of the two adhesive-covered acute (narrow) corners of the tarp, so that the sewn grosgrain tie-out assemblies are in line with the long diagonal that will form the ridge line of the parallelogram-shaped tarp, set back 1/2″ from each raw edge as a perimeter allowance.
20) Position an obtuse (wide) bonded double-layer reinforcement patch on each of the two adhesive-covered obtuse (wide) corners of the tarp, positions for the lateral tie-outs of the tarp, set back 1/2″ from each raw edge as a perimeter allowance.
21) Spread a thin, even application of Seam Grip adhesive over each of the four (4) bonded double-layer reinforcement patches you glued down in Steps 19 and 20, working the adhesive into the grosgrain ribbon and along its edges, still respecting an approximate 1/2″ allowance for the perimeter hem to be executed in Phase V.
22) Extend the application of the Seam Grip adhesive an additional 1/4″ beyond each double-layer triangle patch along the length of its base on the interior (underside) of the tarp panel, and then cover the area with an congruent (matching) single-layer triangle patch, offset inboard past the base of the double-layer patch underneath it by 1/4″ so that it covers the additional adhesive you applied to the main tarp panel beyond the laminated patch. Minimize any trapped air bubbles or irregularities as you smooth down each of the four (4) corners as firmly as possible.
23) Sandwich all four (4) corners — each corner now comprising four (4) laminated layers of DCF material with the grosgrain tie-out assembly and all stitching encapsulated — between two layers of wax paper, and weigh them down with heavy objects in a stable fashion so that the can remain undisturbed during the curing process. (Layers of corrugated cardboard outside of the wax paper can help even out the pressure of your weights around the uneven tie-out assemblies while the corners dry.)
WAIT 8 TO 24 HOURS FOR THE ADHESIVE TO CURE BEFORE CONTINUING
PHASE V — FINAL ASSEMBLY
24) With a rotary cutter or sharp knife, trim off a small section of each corner of the main tarp panel perpendicular to the diagonal at that vertex to keep the tie-out assembly hardware exposed.
25) Crease the entire perimeter of the main tarp panel to form a single-fold hem 1/2″ wide, turned toward the interior (bottom) side of the tarp so that it overlaps the reinforcement patches at the four (4) corners.
26) Removing the dull, papery backing layer first, lay down 1/2″ double-sided bonding tape around the entire perimeter of the tarp, working in sections, if necessary, so that the tape is positioned between the raw edges of the tarp panel and the creases you formed in Step 25. Burnish the surface of the tape all the way around to ensure proper adhesion.
27) Again working in sections, if necessary, fold the perimeter hem over onto the main tarp panel and withdraw carefully the remaining shiny backing layer from the 1/2″ double-sided tape, smoothing out irregularities, eliminating air bubbles, re-creasing and burnishing the formed folded hem as you work your way around the perimeter of the tarp to obtain maximum adhesion.
28) Allow the tarp to cure for several hours after completing the perimeter hem with the bonding tape before use.
YOUR TARP IS NOW COMPLETE
Similar DIY Projects & Instructions
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DIY Cowboy Trail Boss Multipurpose Tarp
This DIY tutorial article covers complete steps for the construction of an 11-foot Cowboy Trail Boss multipurpose tarp, designed by kitsapcowboy AKA Christian Bynum of Bynum Graphic Design.
It is constructed using Dutch’s Xenon Sil Wide fabric.
The Trail Boss is an efficient, all-season widebody hammock tarp that is optimized for additional pitches on the ground to provide wraparound weather protection in a variety of “bushcraft-style” configurations using some hiking poles (or trail sticks) and the same tarp ridge line, guy lines, and stakes used over a hammock.
The finished size is about 132″ square. The Trail Boss can also be used over two hammocks hanging side by side!
Project Overview
Skill Level Estimated Time Estimated Cost Intermediate Approx 10 hours $$ Materials and Tools
Materials Needed: Tools Needed: 8 Yards Xenon Sil Wide waterproof polyester fabric Sewing Machine 1/2 Yard 300D Pack Cloth or other reinforcing fabric Scissors 5 Yards 1.5″ Grosgrain Rotary Cutter (optional) 10 Feet 1/2″ Grosgrain Ruler/Tape Measure 2 3/4″ Beastee Dee Rings Marker or Chalk 14 1/2″ Beastee Dee Rings Lighter 8 LineLoc 3 Adjusters Masking Tape (optiona) Guttermann Mara 70 Thread Clips or Pins (optional) Construction Steps
PHASE I — TARP PANELS
1) To build an 11′ x 11′ Cowboy Trail Boss Tarp, cut and trim the Xenon Wide waterproof fabric into two panels 134″ x 69″, and then orient them in a stack with right sides touching. (They should be free of selvage on both long edges with corners square and opposite sides parallel to form identical rectangles as precisely as possible.)
2) Sew together one long edge of the stacked tarp panels with a seam allowance of no more than 1/4″.
3) Invert the two tarp panels so that they are right side out, putting tension on the seam sewn in Step 2, and fold them so that the edges are aligned and the seam lays flat and crisply creased with the raw edges tucked between the panels.
4) Sew a second row of stitches parallel to the seam sewn in Step 2, approximately 3/8″ to 1/2″ from the previous row, forming a standing (French) seam, the tarp’s ridge line.
5) Lay the joined tarp panels flat, make sure the edges are aligned, and, moving the two layers of fabric together, fold one end of the tarp panels back on top of the other end, so that the two ends of the sewn French seam are stacked; all four corners should also be stacked with the fold running perpendicular to the ridge line seam.
6) Starting at the four stacked corners where the remaining raw edges meet, allowing a 1″ allowance along the short edges of the tarp panels, align the 33″ cat-cut template with the raw edge of the tarp panel running parallel to the ridge line (see overview diagram for Phase I); mark and cut out this shape through all four layers of fabric with a rotary cutter. (Be careful not to let the fabric shift or the template slide as you cut out this shape.)
7) Starting at the inboard end of the 33″ cat-cut formed in Step 6, align the half template for the 66″ cat-cut with the raw edge of the tarp panel running parallel to the ridge line, making sure it is square with the fold at the midpoint of the tarp panels; mark and cut out this shape through all four layers of fabric with a rotary cutter. (Be careful not to let the fabric shift or the template slide as you cut out this shape. Reserve the scraps to make a stuff sack for the tarp.)
8) Mark a point 33.5″ down from the ridge line seam on each tarp panel on each short edge (4 marks total). Mark the midpoint of each tarp panel on the two cat-cut long edges, which should coincide with the exact centers of each of the 66″ cat-cuts. From each of the four outside corners of the tarp, mark a point 5.5″ up toward the ridge line on the short raw edges at the ends of the tarp panels and a mark 5″ into the 33″ cat-cut on the curved edge that will run along the ground parallel to the tarp ridge line. Then set the tarp panels aside.
PHASE II — REINFORCEMENT PATCHES & PERIMETER HEM
9) Cut out four (4) 9″ x 9″ squares of 300D pack cloth. Cut one square in half from midpoint to midpoint on opposite sides to form two (2) 4.5″ x 9″ ridge line reinforcement patches. Cut each of the three remaining 9″ x 9″ squares from corner to corner on each diagonal; each square will yield four (4) triangular edge reinforcement patches with a 9″ base and a 4.5″ height, for a total of twelve (12) triangular patches.
10) Form a folded hem 1/4″ wide on three sides of each rectangular patch cut in Step 9, sewn close to the raw edge with a single row of stitches, leaving one long edge raw on each. Set the hemmed rectangular patches aside.
11) Pick out four (4) triangular patches cut in step 9 for the corners of the tarp, reserve two (2) additional triangular patches, and set them aside. On the remaining eight (8) triangular patches, form a folded hem 1/4″ wide on the two equal sides of each rectangular patch cut in Step 9, sewn close to the raw edge with a single row of stitches, leaving the long edge raw on each. Set the hemmed triangular patches aside.
12) Lay the tarp panels out with the wrong side up (i.e., so that the underside of the tarp is in view), and pick one of the four outside corners. Lay one of the unhemmed triangular patches wrong side up on top of the tarp corner, so that the longer 9″ base edge runs across the corner from edge to edge and aligns with the marks made near each corner in Step 8 with the apex of the triangle pointing inboard toward the center of the tarp panel.
13) Sew a single row of stitches (running in a diagonal relative to the tarp ridge line) 1/2″ inboard across the longer base edge of the triangular patch you positioned on the tarp corner in Step 12, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Flip the triangular patch over along the seam just sewn so that it points out in the direction of the corner, away from the center of the tarp panel, with the right side facing out. Tension both the patch and the tarp corner, and sew a second row of stitches parallel to the first row 1″ away across the triangular patch to secure it flat to the corner of the tarp, hiding the folded raw edge. Trim the patch even with the tarp corner along both the straight and cat-cut edges.
14) Repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the remaining three (3) tarp corners using unhemmed triangular patches.
15) With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one of the four points where the 33″ cat-cuts and 66″ cat-cuts come together, a location for one of the primary side tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed triangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is over this point where the cat-cuts meet and the unhemmed edge is parallel to both the long edge of the tarp and the tarp ridge line.
16) Sew around the perimeter of the hemmed triangular patch you positioned at the side tie-out location with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Then sew a row of stitches across the triangular patch from hemmed edge to hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch, an equal distance from both the base and the apex, securing it to the tarp further. Trim the triangular patch along the base edge even with the curved edges of the cat-cuts.
17) Repeat Steps 15 and 16 for the remaining three (3) side tie-out locations using hemmed triangular patches.
18) With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one of the four points where the 33.5″ down from the tarp ridge line on the short edges at the ends of the tarp panels, as marked in Step 8, a location for one of the tarp’s secondary tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed triangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is over this mark and the unhemmed edge is parallel to the short edge of the tarp panel and perpendicular to the tarp ridge line.
19) Sew around the perimeter of the hemmed triangular patch you positioned at the secondary tie-out location with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Then sew a row of stitches across the triangular patch from hemmed edge to hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch, an equal distance from both the base and the apex, securing it to the tarp further.
20) Repeat Steps 18 and 19 for the remaining three (3) secondary tie-out locations using hemmed triangular patches.
NB: Steps 21 through 23 are OPTIONAL, but they afford you extra ground pitch options with the Trail Boss and allow you additional stability and center internal pole compatibility over a hammock.
21) With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one of the 66″ cat-cuts and find the midpoint, as marked in Step 8, a location for one of the tarp’s two ancillary storm tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed triangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is over this mark and the unhemmed edge is parallel to the short edge of the tarp panel and perpendicular to the tarp ridge line.
22) Sew around the perimeter of the hemmed triangular patch you positioned at the storm tie-out location with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel (see overview diagram for Phase II). Then sew a row of stitches across the triangular patch from hemmed edge to hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch, an equal distance from both the base and the apex, securing it to the tarp further. Trim the patch to match the tarp edge, if necessary.
23) Repeat Steps 21 and 22 for the other storm tie-out location using the remaining hemmed triangular patch.
With the tarp panels still wrong side up (i.e., the underside of the tarp in view), pick one end of the ridge line seam, a location for one of the tarp’s ridge line tie-outs. Position one of the hemmed rectangular patches so that the midpoint of its longer 9″ base edge is on the ridge line seam that joins the two tarp panels and the unhemmed edge is parallel to the short edge of the tarp panel and perpendicular to the tarp ridge line.
25) Taking great care not to sew across the ridge line or catch the standing portion of the French seam that forms it, sew around the perimeter of the hemmed rectangular patch you positioned on the ridge line seam with a row of stitches between the stitches securing the patch’s folded hem and the hemmed edge, affixing it to the tarp panel. Then sew two additional rows of stitches across the rectangular patch from short hemmed edge to short hemmed edge parallel to the base edge of the patch (and the long hemmed edge), spaced an equal distance from each other and the long edges of the patch, securing it to the tarp further.
26) Repeat Steps 24 and 25 for the remaining ridge line tie-out location using the other hemmed rectangular patch.
27) With all of the reinforcement patches in place, starting at one corner of the tarp, sew a continuous double-rolled hem approximately 3/8″ wide around the entire perimeter of the tarp, keeping the stitch row close to the inboard rolled edge and taking particular care around the cat-cuts. (Option: Sew a second continuous row of stitches between the first row of stitches and the outside edge of the tarp to secure the roll hem further, adding to its strength and cosmetics when under tension.) With the perimeter hem complete, set the tarp aside.
PHASE III — TIE-OUTS & HARDWARE
28) Cut the 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon into fifteen (15) 8″ pieces. Set fourteen (14) lengths aside, and cut the remaining length into three (3) small tabs, each just over 2.5″ long. Seal all ends on the fourteen (14) 8″ lengths and three (3) 2.5″ tabs with heat from a lighter.
29) To prepare the side tie-out assemblies, which will be mounted at the four tarp corners and on the ground edges at the vertices between the cat-cuts, on eight (8) lengths of the 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon, mount two pieces of hardware at the midpoint, a 1/2″ Beastee Dee Ring underneath and a LineLoc 3 adjuster on top (see photo). Fold the ribbon in half around the hardware and sew a bar tack to secure each assembly.
30) To prepare the supplemental tie-out assemblies for midpoints the straight end edges and the centers of the large cat-cuts, on the remaining six (6) lengths of the 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon, mount a 1/2″ Beastee Dee Ring (see photo). (If you skipped Steps 21 through 23, you only need to prepare four (4) lengths of grosgrain, with two left in reserve.) Fold the ribbon in half around the hardware and sew a bar tack to secure each assembly. Prepare the three (3) small 2.5″ tabs as supplemental ridge line tie-outs with a single 1/2″ Beastee Dee ring mounted on each.
31) Lay the tarp out flat again. Position each of the fourteen (14) tie-out assemblies at its respective location on the tarp panels, centered on the reinforcement patches, with one tail of the grosgrain ribbon on the top side of the tarp and the other tail of the ribbon underside. Verify the hardware complement and direction of each tie-out assembly during placement. (Option: Secure them with clips, pins, or masking tape.)
32) Make certain at each tie-out location that the grosgrain tails are stacked on top of one another precisely and that the tarp panel and reinforcement patch are sandwiched smoothly between them, and then secure each tie-out assembly to the tarp with a “box-X” stitch pattern; start at one of the inboard corners of the ribbon, maintain good tension on the grosgrain, and sew straight and slowly around the perimeter of the tail in a rectangle, followed by an hourglass pattern that connects the four corners of that rectangle with two diagonals. Work around the tarp until all fourteen (14) tie-out assemblies are mounted to the tarp (see overview diagram for Phase III).
33) Fold the tarp in half along the ridge line. Starting at one end of the standing French seam at the ridge line, position the five-yard section of 1.5″ grosgrain so that it is folded over the tab of the standing seam on the tarp, making sure to leave a loose tail of ribbon about 12″ extending past the roll hem on that end of the tarp. Check to make sure the ribbon is folded fairly evenly (approximately 3/4″ on each side of the fold. Make certain the stitch row at the base of the ridge line tab is covered by the half-width of the grosgrain on both sides when the top edge of the tab is pressed completely into the fold (see photo). With these components in position, position the needle of your sewing machine and drop the presser foot so that when the need pierces the materials, it will contact the tab of the standing French seam above the row of stitches at the ridge line and NOT pierce the tarp panels. Verify that your needle is positioned correctly and the tab sandwiched within the folded ribbon is smooth and straight before proceeding to Step 34.
34) With your ridge line components properly aligned, carefully sew a single continuous row of stitches from one end of the ridge line (even with the roll-hemmed edge of the tarp) to the other, so that the stitches fall on the tab of the standing French seam. Work slowly and mind your alignment during this most critical step as you complete the grosgrain-encased ridge line seam, and check your work once this step is complete.
35) Trim the tails of the folded 1.5″ grosgrain to approximately 4″ in length past the roll hem of the tarp, and seal the cut ends with heat from a lighter. Sew the tails closed along the edges to form a folded tail 3/4″ wide on each end. Mount a 3/4″ Beastee Dee Ring on each tail of the folded grosgrain ridge line with a pair of sturdy bar tacks, and then tack down any remaining length of ribbon securely with a row of stitches parallel to the ridge line. (Option: Sew a saddle of extra 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon over the ridge line and down the roll-hemmed edge of the tarp for extra strength in extreme conditions; see photos.) Mount one folded grosgrain ridge line tab with a 1/2″ Beastee Dee perpendicular to the ridge line (i.e., vertically) at the ridge line midpoint using a study bar tack, and mount the remaining two ridge line tabs 33″ away on either side of the midpoint using the same method, completing the auxiliary tie-out points for ground pitches.
YOUR TARP IS NOW COMPLETE.
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